| Author | Message | ||
     Martin Jennett (Unregistered Guest) Unregistered guest |
Just received new nosegear w shockstrut from EAMF, but will not work as-is on my 1990 Wheeler Lyc IO360 frame (see photo).Awaiting reply from EAMF.. Do you all just modify as necessary.? How important is angle of shock strut to nose strut.?? Have most failures been down by wheel or up where `T` is attached.?.mine sheared at T attach brackets after 12 years and 3500 ldgs.. Thanks for any advice.  | ||
| Jerry Sjostrand New member Username: Jerry Post Number: 67 Registered: 08-1999 |
Martin: The shock mount was of little use on the Express. Remove the doughnuts and utilize the tube you have by placing a smaller tube (for reinforcement) inside then welding the assembly and cutting it to length. Or, you can buy a new "T" replacemnet from Steve Furjese or make your own from 4130 steel and treat the part. Good luck. Jerry} | ||
| Carter A. Smith New member Username: Carter_smith Post Number: 24 Registered: 07-2004 |
Speaking of nose gear, my project is about ready to fly, but I need the Belleville washers which put a little pressure on the nose wheel, to keep it from acting like a supermarket shopping cart! Does anyone know where to get them??? Thanks, Carter | ||
| Gary Markwardt New member Username: Gmark Post Number: 36 Registered: 12-1999 |
Martin: Mine sheared the two AN-5 bolts at the "T" attachment to the engine mount. I too would like to hear where others have had failures. It may be wise to change those 2 AN5 bolts occasionally since they are the smallest diameter attachments in the nose gear setup. I have a Continental IO-550 engine mount, so I can't offer any advice on your problem. Good luck! Gary | ||
| ali moghaddas New member Username: Amoghadd Post Number: 20 Registered: 09-2003 |
You can get Belleville washers from http://www.mcmaster.com/. Also you can use Grade 8 bolts instead of AN bolts. Grade 8 bolts give you a 150 ksi tensile strength vs 125 ksi for AN bolts. However, having a higher tensile strength means it has lower ductility, hence more brittle. I would also pay close attention to the installation torque (and use of proper lubricant) in the bolt to aausure the torque limit is not exceeded. I would also use these bolts once. Once you torque the bolt, it should be close to its yield stength. Torquing & untorquing the bolt could result in fatigue damage, hence lowering its life limits. Ali | ||
| Terry Sack New member Username: Terrysack Post Number: 31 Registered: 11-2002 |
My nose wheel just started a shimmy act on landing. What is the recommended prcedure to torque the bolts? What value is everybody using? | ||
| Terry Sack New member Username: Terrysack Post Number: 32 Registered: 11-2002 |
My nose wheel just started a shimmy act on landing. What is the recommended prcedure to torque the bolts? What value is everybody using? | ||
| (Unregistered Guest) Unregistered guest |
Terry. I torqued my nose wheel to a pull of 40 pounds. That was done by simply hooking a spring scale (used for weighing any hanging object) at the axle position and kept tightening the nose wheel yoke until 40 pounds of pressure would just move the nose gear yoke. This was the pressure that Larry Olson recommended and we have had no problem with it in take off or landing. Regards. Kevin (from Downunder) | ||
| Roger Spencer New member Username: Roger Post Number: 30 Registered: 05-2001 |
I have been unable to find the recommended nose wheel size anywhere in the documentation I have or in the discussions on this forum. I'm planning on using 6" mains but am looking for recommendations on the nose wheel. With all the discussion on nose wheel spindles impacting the ground I'm inclined to go with a 6" main. Any comments or suggestions would be appreciated. | ||
| Jim Ward New member Username: Jehward Post Number: 55 Registered: 02-2000 |
Roger: Depends on the main gear that you have. The latest aluminum main gear required that the nose fork be changed (axle dropped down) since the mains sat higher. This gives much more clearance to the nose gear spindle nut. The original fork extended straight back - the new fork angles downward to give the nose height. Still uses a 5" wheel for the nose, and 6" wheels for the mains. Picture attached. Jim  | ||
| Jerry Sjostrand New member Username: Jerry Post Number: 76 Registered: 08-1999 |
Roger; If you use the original nose gear yoke as I did (and many others also,) purchase or make a "short" nut and cut the threaded spindle off accordingly and re-drill the cotter pin hole. You will gain about a 1/2 inch of ground clearance. Also make sure that you have a slight negative "up" on the yoke to the rear so the caster action will want to re-center the wheel. I had to cut my nose strut (the first one) and have it re-welded to get the negative angle. The struts were made a bit different from time to time. If you have it welded again you must then have it heat treated again as well. Steve Furgese can do this for you if necessary. I do not believe the 6 inch wheel and tire assembly will fit the yoke. Good luck. Jerry | ||
| Roger Spencer New member Username: Roger Post Number: 31 Registered: 05-2001 |
Thanks for quick responses. I have aluminum mains with the new style yoke. I also have fiberglass gear and an old yoke of dubious heritage I got with my partially done kit- I think it might be from a tiger or similar aircraft. If anyone is interested let me know. | ||
| Louie Lacy New member Username: Llacy Post Number: 114 Registered: 10-1999 |
Where can I find the nose wheel towing lugs? I lost one today did I forget to tighten probably. Lou Lacy |