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Larry Hoppe
Posted on Saturday, August 21, 1999 - 07:36 am:   

We have recently purchased Dick Bartell's Auriga kit and are piecing together parts, instructions, and observations from current finished aircraft.
In the Builder Assist Journal, Tom H. attached the aileron counterweight arms before closing out the ailerons. Are the counterweight arms Express fabricated parts? Do these arms fit inside the main wing or do they remain external?
The aileron trailing edge of the Express demonstrator at Arlington had a raised ridge along both the top and bottom. What is the purpose of these ridges? Do the current kits come with this ridge built into the skin or do they have to be created after the aileron is closed? Or, has the aileron contour been redesigned so these ridges are no longer necessary? We have contoured surfaces on our ailerons so need to know the dimensions of the ridges so we can figure out how to create them.
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Tom Hutchison
Posted on Saturday, August 21, 1999 - 05:01 pm:   

Yes, Express supplied the aileron couterweight arms. They are a 1/2" square tube about 6-8" long and bent slightly. Since the aileron's are still in Oly, I can't give you exact measurements. I do believe the arms and counterweights will fit inside the wing.

I don't recall seeing any ridges on the demonstrator ailerons. There are no ridges on my new aileron trailing edges except for a very slight trim line. Perhaps that is what you saw? You are supposed to sand to the trim line and eliminate that little ridge.
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CBROS
Posted on Saturday, August 21, 1999 - 08:57 pm:   

Yes the aileron counter weights do fit inside the wing - assuming you construct them no thicker than the dimensions shown in the manual.

The ridges you observed on the trailing edges of the ailerons on the demonstrator reflect an aerodynamic attempt to lighten the air load. There are several examples, some of which work and some which don't. A carefully constructed aileron control system - even going so far as to replace the composite bearings with rollers - will produce satisfactory aileron control without use of the aerodynamic "fix".

If you want more detailed information on this subject, or EXPRESS construction in general I am the editor of the EXPRESS Link newsletter which has been published for the past 8-9 years. If you're interested in subscribing or obtaining back issues, just contact me at the E-mail address on this message.
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Tom Hutchison
Posted on Sunday, August 22, 1999 - 08:44 am:   

The new aileron control system uses needle bearings and moves very smoothly. I subscribed to the EXPRESS Link newsletter and bought all the old issues. Fascinating reading and a real history of the Express.
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Blake Richards
Posted on Monday, August 23, 1999 - 10:13 pm:   

I purchased my original parts kits 1, 2, 3, from Ken Wheeler, I then bought my upper fuse/s90 tail from EDI. I have installed all ribs in the elevators and rudder but have not yet closed them out. I recently noticed that the new express millenium uses 3 ribs and hinges in each control surface, yet the EDI plans only call for two? Are two Ribs/hinges enough in each control surface?

I also have EDI main gear and nose gear, are these usable or is modification or replacement necessary?
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CBROS
Posted on Tuesday, August 24, 1999 - 04:26 pm:   

Blake:

You are correct. I am certain that the newest docs for the S-90 tail call for three ribs and three hinges per side. Most builders will advise that two hinges per side does not provide a safe level of redundency. Also I know personally of a builder in San Jose who has installed three ribs and hinges per side without prompting from anyone.
As for your landing gear, it is my opinion (shared by Larry Olsen) that the EDI Nose gear is "junk". You will be ahead to get a new nose gear from the factory or find an original Wheeler leg and have it reinforced. If you have the steel main gear as furnished by EDI you may or may not be OK. There have been examples of steel gear legs bending, apparently because they were not properly heat treated. If you choose to install the steel legs please call me for recommended precautions regarding positioning and modified brackets.
If you choose to replace the steel legs with a set of the latest glass legs from the factory you will find them easy to install(and retrofittable) and position the axels slightly forward to reduce the weight on the nose gear. If you are planning on installing a 4-banger, this is of no concern.

Bill Copeland
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Tom Hutchison
Posted on Tuesday, August 24, 1999 - 06:49 pm:   

The new Millenium's aileron's use two hinges, and the flaps use 3. You can see the 3 hinges in the photo of the open flap from my jounal. I don't have the photo's of my ailerons open developed so I can't say for sure, but I distinctly remember there being only 2 hinges.
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Gary Markwardt
Posted on Monday, August 30, 1999 - 10:07 am:   

Having just completed building the control surfaces at Express for the new Millenium, I can confirm that flaps, rudder, & elevators have three hinges and the ailerons have two. I have photos if anyone is interested.
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Bob Wallace
Posted on Saturday, July 22, 2000 - 06:07 pm:   

I am nearing completion on a S-90 and cannot get rid of about 3/8" travel in ailerons. At fun-n-sun, I checked several express's and found all were tight, except 90ED, which has same as mine.I ordered and installed new bellcrank at wing, and checked all heims and rods.Seems that some of problem is at heims, but not sure if it is enough to cause problem. Does anyone have any suggestion,, or is this "typical" on units?
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Bill Copeland
Posted on Saturday, July 22, 2000 - 06:53 pm:   

Bob:

That much play in your aileron system is UNSAFE! Our system has almost 0 play -aileron to aileron and stick to aileron.
Try the following:
Use "close tolerance" AN bolts throughout.
Tighten all bolts joining two peices of torque tube to the upper torque limit.
If holes in connecting tubes are oversize or oblong, a slip free connection may not be possible. You may have to drill an additional smaller hole to insert a self threading screw to lock the two tubes together.
Make certain bolts through Ball ends are tight enough to keep the ball from rotating.
Check the end play in the fore/aft torque tube - there should be very little - if any.
Hope this helps.
Call me if you want to talk more.
PS: We plan to make our first flight early next week!!
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LOUIE LACY
Posted on Monday, July 24, 2000 - 08:59 am:   

Tom
To let you know your web page has a useful purpose
I checked my aileron slack after reading the above messages and I had left out a washer in the outboard bell crank of aileron push pull(read very difficult to get to) Anyway glad to see usefull info Lou
llacy@netease.net
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Steve Bussey
Posted on Wednesday, August 02, 2000 - 08:27 pm:   

I am building an Express CT, and was
wondering how every one is mounting the
aileron counterweight. The manual I have
calls for 2 long (8 inches or so) AN3 bolts,
which is not available in the catalogs I have
looked thru, and seems awkward anyway. Any
Suggestions?

Steve Bussey
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jerry
Posted on Wednesday, August 02, 2000 - 09:43 pm:   

Hi Steve,
I used 3/16" all thread from the hardware store and then used esna (locking nuts) on each end. When I cast the lead counter weights, I cast in a brass tube (from the hobby shop) that became the pass through for the all thread. I also made the weights longer than needed and cut off slices with the band saw. As I needed more weight to counter balance, I added slices.
My method of casting was to use pieces of styrofoam the size of the weight, wrapped with aluminum foil leaving the top area open, inserted the tubes (leaving them longer than the foam), suppported the form in a box of sand leaving the top exposed into which I poured the molten lead. The styrofoam gasses off as the molten lead is poured in place. The aluminum foil will hold against the sand. Once the lead is cooled, pull it out, peel off the foil and you have your weight with tubes through them. Now cut the weights to the required sizes (in half), plus the slices, and you are ready to install them.

The mold size should be apporx. 1/2" thick by 2 1/2" (maybe 3", don't remember) wide by 6" long. Make it longer so as to make sure you have enough weight.

Good luck. If you need more information, you can email me or call. (page) 888-849-0747
Jerry Sjostrand