| Author | Message | ||
     Eric Holmberg (Erich) |
Don't forget that without Tom, we wouldn't have express-builder.com. I know I would not be in such a good mood about my Express without this wonderful resource. Oh, and I promised to make the name tags for next year's Express dinner, so I'll be snooping around for info to put on the tags. I'm planning on putting the following on them: 1) Name 2) Registration Number 3) Kit type, status I think that will be enough for everyone. Anymore and we won't be able to read it after a few beers. -Eric | ||
| Gary Markwardt |
All: Since I seemed to have ignited a firestorm, I'll offer my apology now. Tom has been great to run this forum for us builders and he has stated my concern much better than me. What I meant to say was "let's use the forum to help each other." I think Kevin would agree that I've tried hard to help him on several issues & will continue to do so whenever I can. The Express is a great airplane & we need more of them flying. I'll say no more. | ||
| Anonymous |
Likewise, I did not mean to offend anyone, and if I did, I apologize. My only point is that with a few offhand remarks, we can make the factory look bad, when in fact they are trying to do a good job. I have found it is easier to get help from someone if I keep my sarcasm to a minimum. Again, if I have offended anyone, I apologize, I would rather help than offend. Jim Butler | ||
| Reinhard Metz |
Back to brake lines (for this wonderful airplane): Mine run down the right side and exit near the flap torque tubes. My carry thru had spaces under it at the sides, just enough to get 1/4" tube through. That required routing the left line across in the torque tube space. Alternatively, one could go down the center, and then out to the sides. At the side exits, mine transition to the aforementioned double braid hose, all the way out to the calipers. I think it is a good idea to go with a comination of aluminum line and the double braid hose, to minimize expansion flexing. The Nylaflow tends to expand a bit under pressure, and if you have a lot of it in your system, the brakes will always feel a little soft. Anybody know which alternative plane Mike S. thinks is a better choice? Reinhard | ||
| Eric Holmberg (Erich) |
What have people been doing for a parking brake? Are you somehow keeping the pressure in the brake system with a valve or are you depressing the cylinders with some sort of mechanical arrangment . . . or are you using wheel chocks? -Eric | ||
| Jerry Sjostrand (Jerry) |
Eric, Parking brake valve from Aircraft Spruce works great. To set, you depress brakes (put on the pressure) then pull a cable (I have) or a lever if there is room. This system has been on other airplanes and is easy to install before you put in the instrument panel. Tough afterwards. Jerry | ||
| Eric Holmberg (Erich) |
Thanks Jerry, They list two valves: 06-17200 MATCO BRAKE PARKING VALVE $98.800 60-5 60-5 CLEV PARKING BRAKE VALVE $204.950 Any idea which one you used? Please say the Matco one  -Eric | ||
| Kevin Dennes (Kdennes) |
Wowwwwwieeee. I posted my question last week and then had to travel out of town for the week and have come back to this firestorm. May I unequivically say that I had no intention of lighting such a match. For those of you who were critical of my comment, I accept your criticism in the spirit that I hope you have offered it. For those who have been helpful, thank you so much. I guess there is a need for some explanation (and, trust me, I am not trying to start another bush fire). I went to the Express Assembly Manual CD which the factory supplied and found the necessary headings under Wing Assembly Procedures 3.151 and 3.152 which deal with the subjects that I asked the question about. There were no instructions at those listings. I then went to the "on-line" manual and it was the same. Then I sent off two e-mails to Larry and one to Allyn Roe asking for some help on the matter and did not receive any response from them. That is when I asked for help from the forum and I got help. The only reason that I mentioned the factory was because I thought some of you would simply say to me that I should read the manual. I have needed help many times as you all know and you will never know how grateful I am to all of you for that. I think that perhaps some of the earlier builders assume that the current model builders get the same type of builders manual that you got. That is not so. I have seen the large volume of instructions that Nev Curry used to build his aircraft, but the 2000 manual has had to be rewritten by Larry "on the run". That will have been a huge job and I am sure that once it is all completed then it will be a very much easier manual to follow than the earlier ones. Helpful, full color photographs of parts and procedures are used all the way through it and makes the building a much easier task, I'm sure. I can tell from my experience on the forum that just about every builder has had different experiences with the factory. Some must have had very good experience and others, not so good. I do not think this forum should be used to make gripes about the factory either. Previous entries from me should testify to that. Since I have caused this furore, I will write privately to you so that any misunderstandings can be stated without using this forum to do so. I should be able to get that done during the next week. With best personal regards to you all. Kevin (from Downunder) | ||
| Phil & Margie Hodge New member Username: N410mp Post Number: 14 Registered: 01-2000 |
My right brake locks up occassionally. Landing and taxi can get interesting. I took it apart, and the lower cylinder will not retract with reasonable plier force. Is this a rebuildable part (Cleveland part #60-52) or am I wise to simply replace? What likely caused it? Thanks, Phil | ||
| wayne Unregistered guest |
Yes , they get dirty and stick, you can take out the piston, clean and replace the O ring, bad thing is you have to bleed the line and we've beat that dead horse. Make sure you keep the pins oiled that the caliper slides on, a little LPS4 goes along ways. Make sure your pads are at least an 1/8" thick, and that the wheel pant isn't interfearing. |