| Author | Message | ||
     Jim Ward New member Username: Jehward Post Number: 49 Registered: 02-2000 |
Steve: From the Frapper map picture, it looks like you have a CT model Express. I can tell you that the stance and height for the CT changes quite a bit with the aluminum gear. Also, the nose yoke needs to be changed, but that is probably available from Steve Furjesi. My aluminum gear plugged right into the original fiberglass gear mounts. I am not sure of the differences with the steel gear mounts. Bill Copeland has seen both, so maybe he can comment on the differences (if he can remember that far back ;-). Let me know and I can send you pictures that I took with my installation. With the alum. gear, I have to reach up to touch the tail - I'm 5ft.-10 in. tall. Jim  | ||
| Terry Sack New member Username: Terrysack Post Number: 39 Registered: 11-2002 |
Steve, I have the aluminum gear on my CT (456TS). The gear is an original install, not an upgrade, so I can't comment on the steps to convert. I took Larry Olson's advice to upgrade to the aluminum gear when it came out. I have not regretted taking his advice. Ground clearance is better (I have the Continental IO-550, with a four blade MT prop) because the gear is slightly longer. Looks much better on the ramp. The gear does not flex as much as the steel gear under heavy loads. The steel gear sort of splays out. I was also able to increase my gross weight to 3400#. | ||
| Joel Pressly New member Username: Jpressly Post Number: 6 Registered: 06-2006 |
I am looking for information on retro fitting a CT with fiberglass gear to aluminum gear. Anybody done this? Advise please! | ||
| Gary Markwardt New member Username: Gmark Post Number: 43 Registered: 12-1999 |
Joel: I have a series 2000 that originally had the fiberglass gear. Not sure how the CT differs. But, in my case the Al gear was a direct swap for the fiberglass. The nose wheel yoke needs to be changed to the tipped down model to compensate for the higher Al gear. The only other change was a thicker rubber pad in the gear attaching bracket to accomodate the thinner cross section of the AL gear. Good luck. Gary | ||
| Shawn kelley New member Username: Skelley Post Number: 9 Registered: 01-2004 |
Joel I put in a Aluminum gear on a CT For Jim Ward's plane Gary is right that you need a new nose gear yoke as the Aluminum gear sit alot higher, also we reinforced Rid R with another steel backing plate on the inside of Rib R. This was do to the stiffness of the gear. I can help you with this if you have any more question or need help. my email is sechadog@epud.net Shawn | ||
| Charles M. Robinson New member Username: F15epilot Post Number: 55 Registered: 02-2004 |
All, I've been doing some major (and much delayed) improvements to my Auriga (kit #14). I've been in Pakistan (Defense/Air Attache) for 19 months; now I'm in the process of retiring from the Air Force, so much more time to work on the bird. It's got about 175 hours on it since first flight Jul/'04. During initial build, Jim Lewis gave me an extra set of metal reinforcement plates for the gear. Since I'd inherited the project already 'standing' on the gear, and since I didn't want to go through pulling/replacing, I opted not to put the plates on the gear. Upon starting all of the delayed mods (and a new exhaust), I noted that there was some cracking in the paint on the inside of the gear leg at the bend as it comes out of the wing. These are fiberglass gear (green, not black) and I'm sure it's they are original Auriga legs. The last builder remembers doing all of the gear work, but a stroke about two years before I got the project (and about 5 years time) blurred his recollection of what he actually did such that he does not recall any metal plates coming with the kit. Anyway, long story short, I decided to pull the gear and put on the plates. I noted that my gear seemed pretty thick at the bend when I was measuring for which bolt length to order, but there were no signs of bolts or plates. I noted what I thought were shims installed above and below the gear as it passed through rib R, but focused on getting the gear off working through the sufficient (but cramped) access holes, and not paying this much attention. Here are the pics of what I found upon sliding the gear out of the holes:   Now I was really intrigued. If you look at the left pic, you can make out the crack I'd seen in the white, just at the paint line. These plates, though, are not steel. They are aluminum; about 1/8" thick. Those are beveled/philips 5/16" SS bolts countersunk and attached with plain nuts. I now know why the gear was so thick. The previous builder had glassed over the plates/bolts. The crack was in the outer layer of glass he covered the filler with. Unfortunately, he didn't attach these plates with anything except plain resin--doesn't appear to be milled fiber and the plates/gear were not 'roughened' so the plates came right off after peeling the filler/cloth and removing the bolts. Here is a comparison between the 'real' steel plates and these aluminum ones:   Note that the hole pattern isn't quite the same as what was specified for the Auriga plates (again, thanks to Lou and Jim for giving me a CAD of it). More importantly, note the smaller drilled holes at the inboard end of the plates. These were for 1/4" bolts that passed through the metal bracket assembly that attaches to rib R, and through the gear/plates. This is the reason I'm writing the group. I do not plan to re-install these bolts; my plan being to fill the holes with milled fiber and sand smooth/cover with the plates & hysol. None of the gear assemblies I've found on the forum (and Jim Lewis's gear assembly which I've seen up close) have bolts through this area. As I see the gear design, the gear leg is supposed to be able to slide within this bracket, if even slightly. The inboard attachment plate/swivel has a slight lateral 'give' built into the pivot point which should allow slight lateral movement. Barring rationale from some of you more sage advisers on this forum, I believe bolting the gear to the rib R bracket as was done before puts a bit more stress on the rib than needed. Can someone please confirm this for me? I'm actually very happy with the added filler as I was able to 'carve' a pattern that allows the steel plates to sit inside the built-up area without binding at the edges. See next pic:  I've got Hysol and AN-5 bolts arriving Monday. Today I drilled the bolt holes using the existing ones (except the 1/4" ones) and added in the ones to match the specified Auriga pattern. I'll send pics of how this turns out when I get it mounted. I'd appreciate, though, some thoughts on what to do with those four 1/4" holes--use them or fill them. Thanks! Chuck N336FS PS Hopefully, the new gear will give me a bit higher stance at the mains as the plane has always sat a bit lower in the back than I'd like. | ||
| Charles M. Robinson New member Username: F15epilot Post Number: 55 Registered: 02-2004 |
All, A quick follow-up. After further discussions with Jim Lewis, who forwarded pics of another builder's installation, I will install those four 1/4" bolts through the U-plates that attach to the bracket that is affixed to Rib-R. Even the brackets that Jim has on his plane have these holes pre-drilled in them (he's checking on whether he installed the bolts; I'm guessing he did). It's only four more holes to drill in the steel reinforcement plates, which is not that difficult. If anyone knows of a rationale to NOT install these bolts, please advise. I've already looked through the multiple discussions on this thread, which (as always) is an invaluable resource for builders and flyers. Chuck | ||
| Al Kittleson New member Username: Al38kit Post Number: 21 Registered: 07-2007 |
I am in the process of changing the gear on my CT. This is a plane I bought last year and I am going through it completely. There is a post in the landing gear section of the forum that references a retro for the aluminum gear and mentions an additional reinforcement to rib R. Does anyone have any info on this change? I have no plans information, other than what was posted here...I've also heard of some info to shim something to 5 degrees, but don't know what this is in reference to...any input welcomed. Al Kittleson Granbury, TX | ||
| Jim Ward New member Username: Jehward Post Number: 58 Registered: 02-2000 |
Al: I did not reinforce rib R with any additional layups. The original gear came with a metal "picture -frame" that had ears on it. I ground off the ears, and used that on the opposite side of rib R as reinforcement. The bolts go thru the aluminum blocks that hold the gear legs, and then thru rib R and thru the picture-frame. I Hysoled the picture frame to rib R for extra measure. I'll look thru some of the old Express-Links that Bill Copeland published. I think he had a couple of pictures of it in there. Not sure what the 5 degree shim is about. These gear line up very well. Jim | ||
| Gary H. Wolfelt New member Username: Wolfelt Post Number: 57 Registered: 11-2003 |
Al: I have a series of thirteen photos that I took of this process when I was working in Washington. This was done in accordance with the "factory" process. I think that you will find them very helpful. I sure wouldn't want to be doing this through a hole in the skin. That would be very difficult. It will take too much space here to post them all (unless Tom says it is okay). So if you will send me your snail mail address or give me permission to send them to your personal email address, I will fire them off to you right away. Notice all of the "extra" parts you need including the rubber pads between the clamps. If you don't have this stuff, you can get it from Darrell Peterson as he is now in posession of all of the remaining parts, stuff that he was able to recover from the bankruptcy sale. Good luck. GHW  |