| Author | Message | ||
     Sean Crooks New member Username: Sean_crooks Post Number: 4 Registered: 11-2003 |
Hey thanks for all the input guys/ maybe girls. I am working in an office with a drop ceiling so the 2x4 idea probably will not work but great idea. My problem is not getting the skin to conform to the jig. It is getting the spar twist out. I am considering on lifting the wing skin leading edge out at the tip. fiberglassing the rib in place. then using weight to pull the skin and spar square. i think that should pull the twist out of the spar if i add some heat to the deal. what do the experts think about that...sean | ||
| Jim Oyler New member Username: Midniteoyl Post Number: 74 Registered: 07-2003 |
Now that just might work. Get some heat lamps and let it heat up for a couple days, then cool with the weight on. I know heat works for little things like comforming the doors and panels - Jerry showed us that trick with a hair dryer - but it would take a *little* bit more heat for the spar  . Just make sure you dont overheat. Jim | ||
| Gary Markwardt Unregistered guest |
Sean: In thinking more about this problem, I believe your idea is a good one. Secure the skin tightly in the fixture (weight, hot melt glue, screws, etc) to assure the skin contour is correct. Then fit the rib to the skin and Qcell/glass it in place ignoring the fit to the main spar web. After fully cured, release the skin from the fixture and raise it to get a good fit to the spar web. Glass the rib to the spar web and let fully cure. Then secure the skin to the fixture again which should take the twist out of the spar. You can then try putting a little heat along the spar, not too much though -- you should still be able to touch the spar surface where heated without discomfort. I believe just keeping the skin firmly in contact with the fixture until the wing is completed will suffice since the aft rib will also help hold the spar in place when fully glassed in place. My $.02 | ||
| Sean Crooks New member Username: Sean_crooks Post Number: 5 Registered: 11-2003 |
Thanks for the email guys. I think this is what i am going to do(with gary m. help) with the spar. the heat lamp and room i am in is always 80+ with the windows closed. if anyone can see a problem with this let e know. thanks for your help. i am off to build...sean | ||
| Bob Henderson Unregistered guest |
Has anyone used lubricant and which kind when seating the pins, incase they have to be removed.priot to final fixation? If Murphy continues to visit me I will probibly have to do that, and want to make it as easy as possible to take the wing off when or if I have to | ||
| Carter A. Smith New member Username: Carter_smith Post Number: 5 Registered: 07-2004 |
Friends, I am preparing to attach my old style wings to my new fuselage and I have been considering the way that they are installed. The idea of driving a pin through the carry through/spar blocks seems a little crude if you dont mind me saying. Please understand that I am a new builder and have not had the benefit of the years of experience that some of you have. Having said that, I wonder if anyone has considered using aluminum bushings and steel pins? That would eliminate any problems with the steel/glass interface and make the wings much easier to remove should the need arise at some point in the future. | ||
| wayne Unregistered guest |
so is an alum/FG interface any better? then you have to drill a bigger hole for the bushings.then how are you going to get them all lined up to drill the spar box holes? also, please DON"T drive the pins in, PULL them through with some all thread rod. There are pix of this in my gallery sec. I didn't think of it, but later heard some guys use a 1/4" bolt across/thru the spar spacer blocks so they don't pop loose as you pull the wing pins in. good insurance. it's a long day, have fun, better to have a tight wing then one you can remove later if you have to, just don't have to! | ||
| CBROS Unregistered guest |
Bob/Carter: I think you would find that the use of dissimilar metals - alum and steel would cause a corosion problem that you would not like. I agree with Wayne that some method of mechanically securing the spacer blocks is good insurance, but I know of many wings in place which did not use/require mechanical fastening. You will not need to use a "lubricant". The holes should be carefully reamed to an interference fit and I agree with Wayne also that pulling with an all thread while tapping on the back end will work just fine. Use a bolt to fill the hole on the back end so the end of the pin is not distorted. If I am correct, I believe that the pins are hardened. Be certain that the surface of the pins are clean and bright. The wing attach system is one place that you do not need to "guild the Lily". When done correctly, the wings can be removed with some effort, but without damage. Let's hope you do not ever need to remove your wings once they are finally pinned in place. You do not say if your spars are to be drilled for four bolts? If I understand correctly the "newest" wings use only two. Bill C | ||
| Chaz King New member Username: Chazking Post Number: 32 Registered: 01-2005 |
Could someone help me with instructions on removing the wings from an S-90? Please. I'm under the impression it could be easy or hard; the key aspect is the bolts on the wing spars that go through the cabin? Chäz | ||
| Jim Ward New member Username: Jim_ward Post Number: 3 Registered: 08-2007 |
Chaz What are you trying to remove the wings for? Should be remove the main spar bolts, then the bolts on the fuse sides. Unbolt the flap and aerleron torque tubes and the wings should slide out.(after the electricals /fuel/brake lines are disconnected). Sounds a lot mrs involved whenyou write it all out… Jim |