Author |
Message |
   
Brian McKinney (Bmckinney)
| Posted on Monday, October 28, 2002 - 03:26 pm: | |
Anyone have pictures of the fuel line routing in the wing for the Series 2000 kits? I remember seeing a picture in Doug Hoff's log book that showed the fuel lines coming straight through ribs Q & I instead of doing the "S" turn through the foward shear web like the old kits. |
   
Jeff Dingbaum
New member Username: Aviators
Post Number: 11 Registered: 12-2000
| Posted on Sunday, November 23, 2003 - 07:59 am: | |
I was bending my 3/8" fuel lines and on the 90 degree bends the bend area is coming up a little flattened. I've uploaded a pic for reference. Is this normal? I bought a tubing bender in the fly market at Osh this year and I admit that it wasn't the most high priced tool in my box, but I thought it might do the job with the limited work that I need it for. Maybe not. Does this bend (typical) look all right or am I doing something wrong? Incidentally, I know that my bend is not in the middle of the tank, but I didn't want to run the lines over the fuel filling hole. Jeff
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wayne
Unregistered guest
| Posted on Sunday, November 23, 2003 - 09:11 am: | |
well that's just one more reason why I used SS braided -6 hose ,one piece from the finger screen at the tank to the fuel selector.No kinks,work hardened ends and they go where you need them to with only two fittings. Much easier to install, I got mine from Jegs.com. It used to be called APQ but now it's pro flo or pro flex. the AN hose ends are cheaper there to. I have the same hoses on my oil lines, and on my other plane for 6 years and all's well. |
   
M. Hunter Unregistered guest
| Posted on Sunday, November 23, 2003 - 09:23 am: | |
Jeff, A thought: Considering you don't have any obstructions in the tank bay to bend around, why not just make a couple 45 degree bends and cut down on the crimping? Seems easier and less chance for blockage.. Just my $.02 - Mike |
   
Jeff Dingbaum
New member Username: Aviators
Post Number: 12 Registered: 12-2000
| Posted on Sunday, November 23, 2003 - 09:37 am: | |
Someone emailed me from another list and suggested that I fill the tube with sand before I try to bend it. That is worth a shot. I'm not sure if I want to try the 45deg yet. One of the nice things about the 90 bends is that if you are a 1/6" too long or short the design kind of makes up for it. Also when the wing is flexing it helps keep pressure off of the connectors. Wayne, the bends that I'm working on are inside my inboard tank. The 3/8 line runs from the outboard tank, thru the inboard to the pickup plate. I'm not sure that I would want to install flexible hose inside a sealed tank. Do you use adele clamps to keep your hose runs straight and tight? |
   
LOUIE LACY
New member Username: Llacy
Post Number: 67 Registered: 10-1999
| Posted on Sunday, November 23, 2003 - 09:56 am: | |
When you bend your braided hoses be sure to keep the radius of bend to a minumum. I had an Aeroquip hose break in the outside radius of the bend .This line was connecting the engine driven fuel pump to the fuel pressure sender. As you might imagine this caused a lot of concern on my part and some strongly worded messages to Aeroquip. |
   
Jim Oyler
New member Username: Midniteoyl
Post Number: 61 Registered: 07-2003
| Posted on Sunday, November 23, 2003 - 11:55 am: | |
They have mandrels you can use inside the tube as you bend to keep the diameter consistant. However, you have the wrong size for the tubing being used, or (more likely) the bend radius is too tight for the size and thickness of tubing. A quickie fix w/o buying a new bender is to do as Hunter suggested, but make the bend closer to 75-80 degrees - just before it starts to collapse. this will still allow you to 'make up' and over/under lengths and not collapse the line - creating a restriction. Its gonna be inside the tank so will be hidden. Course, best thing is to get a good bender. Jim
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Jim Oyler
New member Username: Midniteoyl
Post Number: 62 Registered: 07-2003
| Posted on Sunday, November 23, 2003 - 12:02 pm: | |
heres the type you are looking for - it doesnt have to cost much at all. http://www.northerntool.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/ProductDisplay?storeId=697 0&langId=-1&catalogId=4006970&PHOTOS=on&TEST=Y&productId=33396&categoryId=0 The 'open' type just doesnt work very well. Jim
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Jeff Dingbaum
New member Username: Aviators
Post Number: 13 Registered: 12-2000
| Posted on Sunday, November 23, 2003 - 01:07 pm: | |
Jim, That looks like the type of bender that I am using. I may experiment with different bend radii . I don't really want to fill it with anything because it would be a pain to try to flush it all out. I've also heard of people using sugar in their tube. A good flush will dissolve it and get it out vs leaving sand in the tube. Jeff |
   
Jim Oyler
New member Username: Midniteoyl
Post Number: 63 Registered: 07-2003
| Posted on Sunday, November 23, 2003 - 06:34 pm: | |
Try that. The only thing I can think of then, is that the sides of the roller (tool) are not high enough to prevent the collapsing. When you place the tubing in the rollers and start the bend, there should be no gap left, or tubing showing between where the two rollers touch. For smaller tubing, you can hit your local weld shop abd ask them for a few aluminum brazing/welding rods to insert into the tube for use as a mandrel. Should be a snug fit, but still leave enough slack to withdraw the rod after bending. Jim
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wayne
Unregistered guest
| Posted on Sunday, December 07, 2003 - 01:09 pm: | |
I checked my AP book, flatting is caused by too small of bend radius, some is allowed if the narrow radius of flattened area is no less then 75% of the org diameter. Now you have something to go on.Might check your bender's radius against one at the airport shop. |
   
Roger Spencer
New member Username: Roger
Post Number: 10 Registered: 05-2001
| Posted on Tuesday, February 08, 2005 - 06:49 pm: | |
I just started working on my wheeler wings-4 tank configuration. They were partially done by the prevous builder and I find I have a number of questions not covered in the Wheeler manuals as far as I've been able to find. Some of the fittings and lines must be rearranged and need sealant. The type originally used cured grey and almost like rubber. Is it Pro-Seal? If not does anyone know what it was or do they have a suggestion on a comperable compound to seal around tubes and fuel senders? Also the manual continually refers to a fuel proof lubricant for use on fitting threads - what was that compound? I will be using a Continental IO-520D and need to run a vapor return line. The only info I have in my Wheeler manual refers to a 3/16 line but that seem very small. The more recent Express manual seems to indicate a 3/8 return line. I was thinking of using the 3/8 line since that is the max I could pull out of the tank (and I hope I'm never going to be passing that much back to the tank) so I'm sure that's large enough. Anyone with first hand knowledge on the needed size of the return line? Finally on fuel tanks anyway, I'm missing two of the fuel caps from the original wheeler kit. Does anyone know what they were from or where I can get suitable substitutes? |
   
Gary H. Wolfelt
New member Username: Wolfelt
Post Number: 18 Registered: 11-2003
| Posted on Tuesday, February 08, 2005 - 07:00 pm: | |
Roger: Look on pages 164 & 165 in the Aircraft Spruce catalog. You might find something there that will work for your caps, depending on what kind of a neck was installed. I got this info from Ted Gaston. So I would guess that this is a pretty good bet for you too. GHW |
   
Roger Spencer
New member Username: Roger
Post Number: 12 Registered: 05-2001
| Posted on Tuesday, February 08, 2005 - 07:51 pm: | |
I've been looking at those . My flanges are bonded in place and rely on an expanding elastic seal type cap. Although the Glasair caps might work, they're expensive and may not be compatible with the flange contours so I've been holding off on those. |
   
Phil & Margie Hodge
New member Username: N410mp
Post Number: 27 Registered: 01-2000
| Posted on Wednesday, February 09, 2005 - 11:42 am: | |
If I remember correctly the return line for my IO550 is 1/4", and it works fine. I also have 4 tanks, and run the return into the left inner, which I define as my main take-off and landing tank. Installing a 2 gang 4 position selector valve, so that fuel returns to the same tank you are drawing from, would be handy. But this arrangement has worked well for several years so I'll probably never get around to spending the money and time to change it. |
   
Phil & Margie Hodge
New member Username: N410mp
Post Number: 28 Registered: 01-2000
| Posted on Wednesday, February 09, 2005 - 11:46 am: | |
If I remember correctly the return line for my IO550 is 1/4", and it works fine. I also have 4 tanks, and run the return into the left inner, which I define as my main take-off and landing tank. Installing a 2 gang 4 position selector valve, so that fuel returns to the same tank you are drawing from, would be handy. But this arrangement has worked well for several years so I'll probably never get around to spending the money and time to change it. |
   
Anonymous
| Posted on Thursday, February 10, 2005 - 11:21 am: | |
roger ihave the original fuel filler and caps my caps leaked and i purchased replacement from vans same cap. |