| Author | Message | ||
     LOUIE LACY (Llacy) |
If the airport is closed due to saturation can you still park in the homebuilt area and if so what do you tell the arrival controller who tries to get rid of you Lou llacy@netease.net | ||
| Hans Georg Schmid (Hgschmid) |
To Lou / Slickstart I used a LASAR ignition system from UNISON on my two around the World flights (www.millenniumflight.com) with excellent results. The company was first class whenever I believed to have a problem. I contacted UNISON on your behalf. Whoever has questions about Slickstart or Lasar ignition systems please contact Joe Logie directly who wrote: I'll try to help with the SlickSTART problem please feel free to pass our phone number for Piston Help (904-739-4081) or our Piston Help E-mail address ( pistonhelp@unisonindustries.com ) to the person who has the problem. SlickSTART on airframe test The electrical testing for a SlickSTART is not the easiest thing to accomplish while it is installed on the aircraft as it requires specialized equipment, it does make a buzzing noise when functioning but it isn't real loud. On retard breaker mags the SlickSTART should fire the plug as long as both sets of points are open, this usually happens for about 30 degrees after TDC. It is always a good idea to check both sets of points (with a mag timing light) in the retard mag and ensure that point overlap (both points open at the same time) does exist. If you would like to do an operational test on the aircraft, follow these steps: 1. Disconnect the starter cable from the starter solenoid leaving the SlickSTART power lead connected. 2. Remove the spark plugs that coincide with the boosted magneto (ensure at least one plug removed from each cylinder to prevent engine firing over)and reconnect the harness to each plug. Secure the plugs so that the plug bodies are grounded and the electrodes do not contact any part of the engine/airframe. 3. Test the start switch. With a clear prop, turn the ignition switch to "start" and make sure the engine does not turn over. 4. Test the SlickSTART. Have an assistant hold the switch in the start position. Slowly turn the prop forward and look for the electrical discharge at the spark plug electrodes. Keep in mind that allowing a prolonged discharge on a single plug will increase plug wear. The SlickSTART should fire the plug until the prop is moved past the firing position for that plug or the ignition switch is moved out of the start position (removes power from the SlickSTART)! Hope this helps, please feel free to call. Joe Logie Otto Oppliger of UNISON adds the following: It sounds like that it may not have been hooked - up properly or the unit is defective. You will not hear any noise directly at the Slick START unit. The SlickSTART unit can be used in connection of Impulse coupling or retard breaker magnetos. Please remember the P/N.: S-1001 can only be used with the Slick Magnetos whereas P/N.: S-1002 can only be used with TCM-Bendix magnetos. Best regards and hope this helps HG Schmid www.aeroexplorer.biz | ||
| LOUIE LACY (Llacy) |
How much fuel does the inboard tanks(4 tanks) on the original Express hold. I was putting in my new Andair fuel valve(3 hour job took 3 days) and calibrating the tanks the numbers don't match. They are supposed to hold 26 gals but don't hold that much. Lou llacy@netease.net | ||
| wayne norris |
Don't bet on any two to be the same. Run the tank dry and fill it up. Some body stole 4 gallons from mine, I can only get 38 a side, about a quart is unusable. Typical boasting on the sellers side. | ||
| jharlow |
Lou, Sorry for the late responce to your question, My inner tanks hold 26+ gals each and outboard 20. John | ||
| Bob Condrey (Bcondrey) |
I'm probably going to be joining the Express builder's club in the next week or so. Looks like I'll be purchasing a Wheeler kits 1,2,3 and am soliciting advice before making the leap. What things should I look out for before making the purchase? The factory highly recommends switching the fuel tanks to the 1 per wing config which makes sense but they also recommend switching to the new flap and aileron control system. Anybody have thoughts on that? These wings are already closed - is it worth the effort? How much effort is involved? Any advice would be appreciated. | ||
| Eric Holmberg (Erich) |
Hi Bob, You might want to talk with Larry some about the price for any parts you have to retrofit and add that into the cost of the kit. The FT kit was selling for $42k at Oshkosh if I remember correctly. Larry might be able to offer that price or give you a discount off of the regular price if you talk with him. You will definitely want the new aluminum main gear and mounting blocks along with the new reinforced nose gear with the proper spindle angle. Also, if you are using cables for the big tail, you might want to retrofit that with the pushrod system now used for more precise elevator control. You may also want to have someone checkout the plane and also make sure that you completely trust the previous builder since you cannot see what has already been closed out. So, I'm not trying to scare you away, just brining up things that you may want to consider in the grand scheme of things. I did the same thing 8 months ago after buying a partially completed Auriga Express. The factory has been extremely helpful with me, but at times I wish I had just purchased the new kit. Happy searching and good luck! I look forward to you joining the group. -Eric | ||
| Brian McKinney (Bmckinney) |
Bob C., I also bought a Wheeler 1/2/3 & the Auriga (or Series 90 or 2000) upper & tail from a previous builder. The wings were open, so I did switch to the single tanks per side with the cap. fuel guages, the new flap control system, main gear brackets, elevator push-rod system, and few other new Express style components. At this point I am still way ahead in savings from a new kit, but I'm sure the new kits go together faster and easier. You have to be ready to do a lot of research on your own and make some descisions on how to proceed when you integrate the old kit with the new parts. The new Express and the old Wheeler are starting to differ enough that you'll need to study the manuals hard and ask other builders for input. I have received a ton of help from many that post on this site. I try to limit calls to EAC for help since I didn't buy the kit from them. They are plenty busy with the new kits & the assist group. They have, however, provided me with excellent support when I just can't figure it out how to make it go together... Good luck, Brian McKinney | ||
| Bob Condrey (Bcondrey) |
Brian & Eric, Thanks for the info. I've talked with Larry at EAC and based on the price for the rest of the parts (I'll buy the fuse top, tail, etc new from them) he's given me a price that will result in a significant savings over buying all new. I'm inclined to make the conversion to the new control system, etc. just for ease of dealing with the factory. Larry made it sound like a lot of work but worthwhile - I'm just trying to solicit other opinions. Of course later I'll be soliciting help! Bob | ||
| Charley |
Hot start of an injected Lycoming engine, I fly a very tightly cowled Glasair with a IO360 Lycoming engine, (while I am building my Express). I tried every suggestion, some helped some made the situation worse but the method as explained by Reinhard Metz worked the best and is what I use any time the engine is even warm. There is one thing I would like to point out that helped with all starts is a Skytec starter. I think any high speed starter will help I just chose the Skytec at the time. |