| Author | Message | ||
     Steve Bussey |
Here are the instructions as emailed to me by Larry Olson. "Add 4 additional laminates of UNI on the inboard side of the leg from the lower end of the leg to approximately 2 feet up from the bottom. Stager the laminate so that you do not have a thick edge. Wrap the leg with BID so that you are adding approximately 2 laminates around the leg. I roll up 3" wide tapes and wrap on as if you are putting on a bandage." I have done the mods, and the gear are installed on my wings, but I have not reinstalled the wings yet. | ||
| Rob Jordan |
Thanks for the information guys. I did this and some additional beefing up. I guess it would be nice to buy the new gear but it would be my third set. I spent well over $2000 on these so I had to beef them up and hope for the best. | ||
| Eric Holmberg (Erich) |
$2k for the fiberglass gear? You should have asked, I have a pair sitting around. So, for anybody else that wants a pair, make an offer! -Eric | ||
| Brian McKinney (Bmckinney) |
Eric, Rob probably has the EAC fiberglass gear, I assume you have the Auriga ones(like me). As crazy as it may sound after reading all of the negative glass leg comments, I am currently sticking with these. By the time I have to actually fly with them, a few other Aurigas will have enough time on them to determine their strength. Last week I attached the upper bend plates with the Hysol & 19 bolts. Brian | ||
| Brian McKinney (Bmckinney) |
Here's my right Auriga leg with the plate installed...  | ||
| Kevin Dennes (Kdennes) |
I have been advised that the nut for the main gear axle that is supplied from EAC with the outboard pants bracket attached should be fastened up against the bearing retainer when the wheel is in place. I have a dilemma. If the nut is screwed right up to the bearing then the castellations on the nut go in past the hole for the split pin (cotter). I have asked the question whether I should use a spacer so that the castellations do line up but the answer that Larry gave is that I should not use a spacer. How do you secure the nut so that it doesn't move? Regards. Kevin (from Downunder) | ||
| wayne |
Here is how I did it. Drill/tap the axle center for a 1/4x20 all thread, extending outward through the wheel pant, sandwich the pant between two nuts and large washers,this way you can adjust the pant/wheel spacing. cut off the excess and file smooth. Don't use the welded on hat bracket. Use wraps of safty wire though the castle nut holes. If you don't like the all thread set up, once you have the spacing, make an alum spacer that fits between the pant and axle end, then run a bolt though into the axle. | ||
| Gary Markwardt |
Kevin: If I understand your question, you are either too snug for free wheel rotation or have too much end play (too loose)when you line up the castellated nut with the cotter pin holes in the axle. First, check & see if the welds securing the bracket to the nut are preventing full seating of the nut face to the bearing seal. I had to grind the welds down slightly. After resetting the nut, I could not get the castellations aligned on one axle. So, with the nut properly snugged I drilled a second set of holes about 90 degrees from the original holes using the castellations as a drill template . | ||
| amoghadd |
Rob/ Brian: I thought I interject my 2 cents opinion into the fiberglass landing gear discussion. Assuming shimmy is not due to a loose component, shimmy is usually a resonance (ringing) phenomenon being set off by a vibration(random / sinusoidal) or shock load. This load/ excitation could come in shock form as in hard landing, or as a rotational vibration / sinusoidal vibration due to an imbalance in the wheel. Stiffening the legs enough will drive the resonance frequency outside of the driving frequency range. However, stiffening the leg too much will increase the dynamic load at the landing gear attachment point (static load will not be affected). This means that the gear dynamic response/ load will not die-down enough at the attachment point. This could cause cumulative fatigue damage over time, and eventually cause cracking in the attachment bracket/ rib. Therefore, one has to play a balancing act between stiffening the legs to eliminate shimmy, and driving the problem elsewhere, potentially causing rib cracks. The natural/ resonance frequency of the component/ landing gear is proportional to (K/m)^.5 ( K is the stiffness, and m is the mass). Based on this, when stiffening the part, one has to exercise care to minimize increase in the mass. That is why in this case Carbon fiber/ graphite UNI covered by several layers of S-glass or Kevlar BID will give you most bang for the buck. | ||
| Bill Copeland |
I noticed the above discussion on reinforcing the fiberglass gear legs and may be of some help to those who want to do the reinforcing using carbon fiber/UNI. CBROS fell into a LARGE pile of pre preg material which includes thousands of feet of carbon UNI prepreg. If anyone is interested in obtaining some for the cost of shipping, please let me know. |