| Author | Message | ||
     Bill Copeland |
Now that's what I call builder support!!!! | ||
| Kevin Dennes (Kdennes) |
Jim, Thank you for the assurance about being able to remove the flap actuator without cutting into the wing. Larry has also been in touch with me and assures me that whilst it is a bit tight to get it out, it can be done. I apologise for my previous posting if it gave people the wrong impression about putting the actuator in or taking it out. My problem is that I have gorilla sized hands and I may have to get other help from someone with dainty, small hands. Jim, is Kay available to come down and do the job for me. I offer a good hourly rate for professional help! You are right Bill. Not everyone gets that level of builder support. Regards. Kevin (from Downunder) | ||
| Anonymous |
Kevin, In fact, Kay and I will be in Australia in October. If you don't have it out by then, let us know. Jim Butler | ||
| Brynjar Thordarson (Benny) |
A little mouse lives in my hangar. I call him Jerry. He's been of tremendous help to me lately. (That's after I trained him to perform inspections in tight places). He can enter all these tight places. JUST FOR FUN. The mouse really lives there, but I've been unable to come closer than seeing it jogg by. BENNY (from Upabove) | ||
| Kevin Dennes (Kdennes) |
Benny. If that mouse breeds save an offspring for me please. Jim and Kay, I haven't even put the motor in the wing yet. I hope that if you are coming to Sydney that you will allow some time/ some place for at least a meeting. Regards. Kevin (from Downunder) | ||
| Anonymous |
Kevin, We'll be passing by Sidney, but I think we will be over the harbor at 500 feet. We are going on the Goanna Australian Air Safari, the Eastern Wanderer Tour. We will have some time in Brisbane prior to the start of the tour. We will arrive in Brisbane on October 5 at about 8:30 AM. Jim Butler | ||
| Kevin Dennes New member Username: Kdennes Post Number: 56 Registered: 01-2001 |
Greetings all. Can anyone advise me where I can get my Linak flap motor repaired or replaced please. The one supplied by the factory is faulty. It has already been sent back to EAC for repair and returned to me, however, after the struggle and blood letting to get it into the wing last week, I was then horrified to find that it still wasn't working. Sooooo Out it had to come again. I would be grateful for any help. Regards. Kevin (from Downunder) | ||
| henri walser New member Username: 43henri Post Number: 6 Registered: 02-2001 |
Hello Kevin, I know youe problem. If you connect the wiring wrong,good by electronic parts. One of our Expressbuilder from Swiss has the same problem. I open the actuator and found a strong Bosch-DC-motor (part of a hevy car windowopener). I disconnect all the wiring including the platine and connect two wire direct to the DC-motor and make some installation of two relays insid of the cabin to change the direction. K.I.S. Be shure that the two DC-motor-wire without electricity are both grounded. God luck Henry from Switzerland/France | ||
| Anonymous |
I thought I had a problem with my motor, but found it to work fine with a "real" battery. I had heard you could test the motor with a cordless drill battery, and since I did not have the battery for the airplane yet, that is what I did. Nothing happened, even though the cordless drill battery was fully charged. I tried the battery in my truck, and it worked fine. Perhaps one of the higher voltage cordless drill batteries might work for testing, but mine is a little one! Steve Bussey | ||
| Roy Howard Davis New member Username: Royhdavis Post Number: 14 Registered: 01-2003 |
I like Henri's K.I.S. solution. We just had another flap motor returned to the factory with the burned trace to the black wire. Here is a photo.  There are really two problems with the flap motor installation. One is hooking up the back wire to ground and damaging the trace. The other is not having the limit switches work and having the motor stuck on when the switch is left in the up position. I'm thinking a small box in the cabin with relays or heavy FET switches to handle the motor current, a Polyfuse to provide precision current limiting that mechanical circuit breakers cannot provide, and a timer that shuts the motor off after a period plenty long to get the flap up. The timer would be reset by a momentary flipping of the switch to the center position and back again if need be. For new kits this will be connectorized or built right into the control stick harness. For older kits I propose publishing the details of the design and where to purchase the inexpensive parts so you can customize it for your installation. BTW, if you have a burned out flap motor, don't throw it away. The motor is probably still good and with the external control box the burned up part gets tossed. This is thinking off the top of my head, so please feel free to comment. |