| Author | Message | ||
     Kevin Dennes (Kdennes) |
I am very close to the time when I need to drill and pin my spars into position and was wondering if I could get some help on one issue. In the Assembly Manual it says that "piloted drills" to 23/32" are required and then a "piloted reamer to 3/4". I have asked around in many of the engieering shops at our local airport as well as a well known engineering supply company but none have had these items and would have to order them in from overseas. They are not kept as stock items as there is very little call on them. I asked the price of the items and I think it would be cheaper to send the aircraft by ship and have it done in the States. My question is :- Did other builders use these tools and secondly, if they must or should be used, would anyone have a set of drills and the reamer that I could hire off them. Naturally I would pay the freight and ensure that they were returned in good order. Even this would be a bit expensive but not as bad as having to specially buy them just to make eight holes. They could then be used as tent pegs after that. Regards. Kevin (from Downunder) | ||
| Gsjostrand |
Kevin, I'm sure you will hear from several builders, but maybe I will be the first. The holes on my wings were 7/16" from the factory. From Express Aircraft maybe different. However, I pinned the first setup using 7/16" steel pins (long carraige bolts from the hardware store. Then drilled and aligned with 1/2" (again long bolts from the hardware store) for the final fit. I borrowed a pilot drill (1/2" to 3/4") from Ed Bernard and did the dirty deed. I have done 3 sets of wings this way and it works well. A piloted drill can be made from 1/2" to 3/4" in any shop that sharpens machine tools. I did not use a reamer for a final fit as the 3/4" hole will be slightly undersize because of the material being drilled. If necessary, you may use a reamer, however, you do want a "snug" fit. I hope some other builders will have suggestions for you. Good luck. Wish I was there to help. Jerry Sjostrand | ||
| Kevin Dennes (Kdennes) |
Jerry. What a great help this forum is. Thank you so much for your input. Regards. Kevin (from Downunder) | ||
| Bill Copeland |
Kevin: I think I can beat Jerry on this one. If you can wait a couple of days I will try to round up the 3/4 inch drill and a pilot reamer that I can loan you. Jerry is right, start with 1/2 inch holes, then go to the 3/4 and reamer, one hole at a time - assuming all holes are pined with 1/2 inch bolts from your local hardware store. I will write to you off line when I find them (just reorganized the hangar)- that is if you want them. Let me know your pleasure. (Hi Jerry, when you coming over to buy lunch???) Bill C. | ||
| Brynjar Thordarson (Benny) |
Hi Kevin By the end of September I'll have my wings in. I got a set of drills and reamers from Boeing Surplus in Seattle. I could bring them to Melbourn and send them to you. Bill. I thought it was my turn to buy lunch! Rgds BENNY | ||
| Kevin Dennes (Kdennes) |
What do I say!!! You guys are just wonderful. Thank you . . . thank you. It is more than likely that it will be at least the end of September b4 I would need them. I have finished installing the wing side of things but I now must finish doing the body work on them and there is still lots to do on the fuselage and engine etc. Bill, let me know when you find them and we will make a decision from there. Benny, when are you coming down to Melbourne? Where is Melbourne? Oh! Sounds like a southern suburb of Sydney!!! I remain grateful to you all. There is so much goodwill in this group that it overwhelms me. Regards. Kevin (from Downunder) | ||
| LOUIE LACY (Llacy) |
I can't keep from commenting what a great cross country airplane this is. I just got in from flight COS TO 0M1 1000 sm in 5 hours. I had all my wife's clothes in the rear of Express. It would have taken 2 Lancair IV to carry this much. The problem I had during this trip. The bottom cowl deformed outside the #1 exhaust pipe. The engine is an IO540. What can I use to shield heat from this area Has anyone else had this problem. Lou llacy@netease.net | ||
| wayne norris |
Before the first flight,I smeared the area with hi temp copper RTV and applied a layer of HEAVY duty aluminum foil on it while wet. 6"x10" or so. to reflect the heat. This has worked for me and on other fiber glass cowls I know of. | ||
| Bob Gisburne (Gisburne) |
Lou: I tried the heat blanket (from Aircraft Spruce)for a couple hundred of hours but kept fighting peeling and cleaning issues. I went to a local "speed" shop and found header wrap material that has lasted for another 500 hours. Since that time, no cowl heat issues. Including the "Desert Storm" paint period and the final production paint period. No issues with rust or damage to the exhaust stack. Bob Gisburne N4382A | ||
| Jerry Sjostrand |
Fellow builders, When I submittd the previous comments, I left out an important one. In each case where I fit the wings, I installed 2 carraige bolts through the spacer blocks and spar where the pins go. I was aware of one block that came loose while the final pins where being driven in. In that event, the block on the reverse side has no support. If the pins needed to be removed (heaven forbid but I did have to do it once), there will be support by virtue of the 2 bolts. Countersink the nut end so it is flush with the block where it needs to clear the carry through. Comment: What are you guys doing talking about cowlings under the "Wing Spar" section. HMMMM! Happy building. Jerry Sjostrand |