| Author | Message | ||
     Joe Chisolm New member Username: Jchisolm Post Number: 8 Registered: 11-2001 |
FYI: A note of caution. I got a very nasty and expensive suprise when I went to pull out my doors from storage in the hangar. I had applied that Spray Lat stuff over a year ago. The bad news is the windows are crazed beyond repair. I dont know if it was the heat alone (AZ in the summer) or a combo of both. Anyway I got some news from LP Aero. Front side windows are $175 (ea) for clear, $210 for tint. Rear is $142 clear, $171 tint. They also have the windshield, .312 is $610, .375 is $755. The good news is my windshield is ok. When I have the $$ to order the stuff I need I'll post a note on how it went. | ||
| tom ware New member Username: Tommie Post Number: 21 Registered: 06-2000 |
Does any one recall the solvent used to safely remove the plastic protective film from the windows? | ||
| tom ware New member Username: Tommie Post Number: 22 Registered: 06-2000 |
Does any one recall the solvent used to safely remove the plastic protective film from the windows? | ||
| Matthew Byrne New member Username: Mbyrne Post Number: 22 Registered: 07-2003 |
Tom, I use pledge or lighter fluid, seems to work well, I just installed windows in my cherokee and used lighter fluid with no problems. Joe, can I buy your old windows from you so that I can use them as a mold to build my windows? Thanks, Matt | ||
| Reinhard Metz New member Username: Reinhard_metz Post Number: 57 Registered: 03-2003 |
Tom, I had a serious problem in trying to remove the latex off my windows (after sunlight had caused it to harden during sanding/finishing outside), and an exhaustive search found that what the pros use is a mixture of 25% acetone, 75% Toluene. I would be totally surprised if lighter fluid (benzene) works. Reinhard Metz | ||
| Gary Markwardt New member Username: Gmark Post Number: 26 Registered: 12-1999 |
I would start with a less agressive solvent. Something like paint thinner or naphtha (lighter fluid) to start. Acetone is not plastic friendly & can cause crazing. Maybe okay mixed in with other solvents as Reinhard suggests, but go slow and try in non-critical area first. Gary | ||
| Reinhard Metz New member Username: Reinhard_metz Post Number: 58 Registered: 03-2003 |
Gary is right about acetone in general, but it is specifically the mix with toluene that makes it ok. I had to use it because, believe me, I had tried EVERYTHING else, with no success. I agree though, try whatever you do carefully, but if you find the acetone/toluene mix to be your solution, use it quickly - don't linger. I did use it on all my windows, and in 6 years and 600 hours of flying, there have been no problems with the windows. This mix is ONLY ok for plexiglass - NOT Lexan.} | ||
| wayne Unregistered guest |
A hair drier is good for removing old tapes, vinel and masking might work on that plastic film. | ||
| Reinhard Metz New member Username: Reinhard_metz Post Number: 59 Registered: 03-2003 |
Wayne triggered a thought - when I had the problem with my windows, I did manage to get some of the spray-lat off with duct tape. In fact, I didn't use the standard grey duct tape (which a friend of mine rates as "100mph tape"), I used a black-backed type, which has a stickier adhesive (rated as "200mph tape"!). I would not use a hair drier on windows - that can definitely cause crazing. | ||
| Jerry Sjostrand New member Username: Jerry Post Number: 60 Registered: 08-1999 |
OK guys---my input: I used duct tape (strongest I could find (3M or ?)) and used it to pull off the spraylat coating where it wouldn't come with other things. Simply apply the tape and use something to force it down to the surface (the big end of a sharpie pen is good) to increase the bond to the spraylat. It works great! I used acetone when necessary and it will not damage the plastic unless you soak it. Like leaving a saturated rag on the window for a long time. To remove old masking tape and tape residue, I suggest you spray saturate it with WD40 and use a clean smooth cotton rag as the adhesive softens. The WD40 will not harm the plastic. However, bear in mind that you may be putting fine scratches in the plastic. These can be removed when the paint work is finished by using special fine plastic polishes with a machine buffer or by hand. I finished all my windows this way when I compounded the paint surface for the final finish. Reinhard's suggestion of a mixture of toluene is probably OK as it worked for him. Try the tape thing and you will be surprised at the results. Good luck, Jerry Sjostrand} | ||
| Andy Plunkett Unregistered guest |
The biggest problem I've seen with crazing is that it happens a few months after this attempt to remove the spraylat. We've had several discussions on the Glasair.org site with regards to this and the conclusion is that acetone was the consistant cleaner used prior to the crazing showing up. We have found that new spraylat applied over the old spraylat worked best at removing stubborn spots while causing no damage or future crazing. Just passing on what I've read. Andy Plunkett |