| Author |
Message |
    
Kevin Dennes (Kdennes)
| | Posted on Tuesday, December 04, 2001 - 11:23 pm: | |
Thanks for the info Jerry and Tom. I am not entirely sure what you are saying about the Glasair setup. Is that info available through the web or is it only in hard copy? On my 2000 I just assumed that the windshield would be mounted in the joggle that is already there. I am aware of the external fibre glass that goes around the screen but not aware of any internal work. Maybe I should read Larry's instructions again to see if there is any clear direction on this. I do not have it with me at the moment.
Regards.
Kevin (from Downunder) |
Bob Gisburne (Gisburne)
| | Posted on Wednesday, December 05, 2001 - 07:45 am: | |
Another bit of input on panels and windshields. I have nearly 600 hours on my Express and routinely fly IFR and at night. Make SURE you extend the "dashboard" far enough aft to prevent the glare from instrument lights at night. The large glass area of the Express is a great feature only if you can see at night! My dash extends only about 4" aft of the face of the panel. At night I rig up essentially a black file folder I stick on the dash that extends about 8" aft. I use the Vision Microsystems engine system and internally lighted instruments. These instruments make for a clean panel layout, but are definitely more glare producing than post lighted instruments. Another tip is for the Vision system is to place a resistor in series with the light bus coming out from the DPU of the Vision. The Vision is much brighter than any other instrument on your dimmer bus. You have to play a bit with the value of the resistor to get the right brightness. Another idea is if you use the internally lighted Honeywell rocker switches for your switches, order 28V lamps with the switches. The 12 V lamps are TOO bright and reflect in the windscreen very badly. You can always order the 28V bulbs later and install yourself, they just pop in and out.
Enjoy!
Bob Gisburne
N4382A |
LOUIE LACY (Llacy)
| | Posted on Friday, December 07, 2001 - 09:22 pm: | |
Bob
What size resistor did you start with I have the same problem with my VM1000 and was wondering how to make it dimmer
L Lacy |
tom ware (Tommie)
| | Posted on Tuesday, December 11, 2001 - 05:37 pm: | |
LOU TRY A 1/4 WATT 1000 OHM RESISTOR THIS IS WHAT I USE IN MY FIELD FOR A 12 TO 24 VOLT DC BULB POWER CONVERSION I WOULD START THERE AND MAYBE WORK BACKWARDS IN VALUE |
tom ware (Tommie)
| | Posted on Tuesday, December 11, 2001 - 05:42 pm: | |
I SEE FROM THE LAST NEWS LETTER LARRY HAS ORDERED STEEL OR ALUM. LANDING GEAR.
ANY PROBLEMS WITH THE GLASS GEAR SUPPLIED BY HIM AND EXPRESS AIR CRAFT?
WHAT ABOUT THE NOSE GEAR MADE BY EXPRESS AIRCRAFT? I PURCHASED IT ABOUT A YEAR OR TWO AGO HAVE NOT INSTALLED IT YET. |
Bill Copeland
| | Posted on Tuesday, December 11, 2001 - 09:40 pm: | |
Tom:
There have been reports of problems with the "glass" gear legs. The new legs to be furnished with all kits after the first of the year are aluminum. They can be retrofit into any fixed gear wing by acquiring the proper brackets.
Your nose gear should be OK - if you purchased it from EAC.
Bill C |
Tom R. Hutchison (Tomhutch)
| | Posted on Thursday, January 17, 2002 - 07:55 pm: | |
Hello
I post some pictures of my way of making the instrument panel.I have made two panels, one left
and one right out of alu sheet. Then made a shock mount alu angle "frame" to screw the panels to.
This way I will be able to take out any of the panels without having to dismount the whole thing.
Sven Eriksson
 |
Tom R. Hutchison (Tomhutch)
| | Posted on Thursday, January 17, 2002 - 08:04 pm: | |
I posted the preceding message for Sven since he was experiencing image upload problems. I think the problem is a "funky" quirkiness of the discussion board software that demands images have a file extension of .jpeg, i.e. pic1.jpeg instead of .jpg
The panel is looking good Sven. What did you use for your switches. It looks like a pre-made module of some kind.
Tom |
Rick Spriggle (Rspriggle)
| | Posted on Friday, January 18, 2002 - 04:45 am: | |
Sven,
I agree with Tom, the panel design looks great!
The pre-made switch panel Tom asked about is from Composite Designs (http://www.integrityonline15.com/wwerner/Std_Power.htm). It is made to be an all-in-one solution with terminals on the back for battery, alternator, and ground and also for all the accessories. Pretty much connect your wires and go! I've looked at this many times even though I'm quite a ways from creating the panel.
Sven - I was wondering what you thought of the quality of the panel, as in feel of the switches, etc.? It would sure save a lot of work and I've yet to find a good quality rocker switch with screw terminals.
Rick |
Anonymous
| | Posted on Friday, January 18, 2002 - 05:26 am: | |
Also have a look at Control Vision for there pre made panel. I used it and am very happy.
www.controlvision.com There panel comes with rocker or lever swt's and can be remote mounted from the actual wiring panel.
John Harlow |
Sven-Ake Eriksson (Sven)
| | Posted on Saturday, January 19, 2002 - 11:23 am: | |
I purchased the switch panel from Aircraft & spruce company. They call it "homebuilders switch panel" and sell for $550. I have examined the switches and circuit breakers and found them to be OK. Master switch is a normal one as found in cessnas and pipers. Circuit breakers are Potter & Brumfield type W28. All other switches are C&K 15 amp rating types. All connections to switches & fuses are 1/4 inch "spades". External connections are made with bolts or screw terminals. Radio master is connected via a relay that is "off" in the energized state to assure power to the avionics even under voltage "brown out" conditions. Landing lite is energized thru another relay(normally connected). And, yes this device will save a tremendous amount of time as it has all the necessary switches and fuses for use onboard our Expresses. I have a circuit diagram that was delivered together with the switch panel. If someone are interested it is possible to make a copy.
Sven Eriksson |
Kevin Dennes (Kdennes)
| | Posted on Sunday, January 20, 2002 - 01:44 am: | |
Sven.
I would be most interested in taking up your offer on the circuit diagram. I am getting close to the time to install the instrument panel and make decisions on the various components.
regards
Kevin (from Downunder) |
wayne norris
| | Posted on Saturday, May 11, 2002 - 12:37 pm: | |
So what are you making the glair shield out of, plastic/alum/??
I am installing the instrument panel and wiring things up but haven't come up with a dash yet.
Anyone out there with some close up pix of this?
Also how many flex washers go in eash joint of the flap drive?
Thanks, Wayne |
Kevin Dennes (Kdennes)
| | Posted on Monday, October 21, 2002 - 03:09 am: | |
I have been looking through the "Spruce" Catalogue and noticed the Homebuilders Switch Panel to which Sven referred in January. I would be grateful if anyone could send me a reasonably detailed photograph of the unit please. I note that it doesn't have a switch for pitot heat, which we would need. Have others used this unit and if they have, I would appreciate your comments on it.
If anyone has details of other packaged switching panels that they are using, that would also be helpful information.
What is the bundle of swithes that the factory use when they finish off your aircraft. I remember being impressed with the switch layout on N511EA.
If anyone has photographs that they could send it may be preferable to send them direct to me rather than cluttering up forum space.
Regards.
Kevin (from Downunder) |
Jerry Sjostrand
| | Posted on Monday, October 21, 2002 - 08:57 am: | |
Kevin:
I recently purchased the "Anywhere Map" software from Control Vision (www.controlvision.com). They offer the type of product you want. Check it out and let me know what you think.
http://www.anywheremap.com/pages/products.htm
Cheers. Jerry |
Anonymous
| | Posted on Friday, November 01, 2002 - 01:48 pm: | |
For a high-res, high-performance moving map on the Pocket PC/Tablets, check out MountainScope (www.pcavionics.com). I just saw it at AOPA Expo. They're new to the market, but the terrain and symbols are unbeatable.
Eddy |
Jim Ward
New member
Username: Jehward
Post Number: 17
Registered: 02-2000
| | Posted on Tuesday, July 20, 2004 - 01:51 pm: | |
Just thought I'd throw a few recent pictures up here (every so often) of the progress/things going on in California. Here's a pic of my panel (blank at the moment) and center-console set-up, along with the re-vamped Miata seats. (Legs in the background belong to "I had it here a minute ago...."- Bill Copeland).
Jim
 |
Phil & Margie Hodge
New member
Username: N410mp
Post Number: 25
Registered: 01-2000
| | Posted on Tuesday, July 20, 2004 - 09:15 pm: | |
Jim -
You got my attention with your "revamped Miata seats". Did I miss an earlier discussion about them? What sort of revamping did you do? Why Miata? Were you able to keep the recline function without interfering with the wing spar?
Phil |
Jim Ward
New member
Username: Jehward
Post Number: 18
Registered: 02-2000
| | Posted on Wednesday, July 21, 2004 - 09:32 am: | |
Phil:
For the front seats, I tried to reduce weight by cutting out the seat pan, and attaching it to reinforced 2foam2. Then attached the 2foam2 new pan to aftermarket seat rails. The cutout in the photo below was not necessary (thought I'd need it to clear the stick - but not). As well, I shortened the lenght of the seat bottom, by about 6 inches (you'll see the seat pan was cut short as well). The total weight, with temper-foam in the bottom (2 layers), and also in the lumbar area of the seat-back, came in around 36# per seat-(not light!)But, I have forward/back adjustment and also recline. I'm not tall at 5'-10", but with one "click" of forward adjustment from the carry-thru, I get plenty of recline adjustment. My setting is actually much further away from the carry-thru. The most difficult part of this was keeping the height down. I actually had to take them back to the upholstery shop to have foam removed (down to the two layers). The rear seats, also Miata, came in lighter (no seat rails)at about 28# each.
The leather seat-covers are after-market from a company called Katzkin(on the internet)-worked great for all except the front bottom seats.
Let me know what else I can help you with. I believe we have an extra 2 Miata seats here looking for a home.
Jim
 |
Closed: New threads not accepted on this page