| Author | Message | ||
     Larry Hoppe |
Engine Mount Drawing: Does anyone have a print of the current Express engine mount? Would like to obtain some competitive bids for construction, but need a print first? Exhaust System Drawings: Same applies. Has anyone been able to successfully fit mufflers in the system under the Auriga cowling? | ||
| Tom Hutchison |
I have some photos of the firewall forward of the new Express demonstrator sans the cowling. I can put them up on the web site when I get a chance. Tom | ||
| Larry Hoppe |
Any firewall forward photos showing engine mount, exhaust system, oil cooler, nose gear, baffling, etc. would be appreciated. | ||
| cbros |
Larry: How many pictures do you want? I can help you if you are planning to install an IO-540 Lycoming. If you are planning to install an IO-360 Lyc I suggest you contact Reinhart Metz at metz1@lucent.com. If any other type, let me know and I will try to come up with a builder who can help. I assume you are willing to pay for film, developing and postage. Bill Copeland | ||
| Larry Hoppe |
To be very specific, the engine is an IO-540-G1D5. Might as well take a 24 picture roll including some of the cowling. I will advance you the funds for the photos - tell me how much. From whom did you get your exhaust system and engine mount? Is there any room under the cowling for mufflers? Where are you located? Thanks for your help!! | ||
| CBROS |
Larry: I will take a roll and get them to you A.S. A. P. We got our engine mount and stainless steel exhaust system as part of a firewall forward package we purchased from Larry Olsen when he was "Experimental Aircraft" company so that I will have to research our old records to see if we have an itemized list. Our 540 is a C4-B5 and we are using a nonextended hub with a three blade McCauley. Using this set up allowed us to use the original Wheeler furnished cowl. We will be able to talk more effectively after you receive the pics. You will not have room for any kind of effective muffler under the cowling. We have been considering mounting a muffler in a tunnel under the front of the fuse, just behind the firewall. We are counting on our European builders to come up with muffler solutions as they are required in some countries. Our shop is a hangar in Livermore, CA on the Livermore (LVK) airport- If you're not familiar with the bay area, we are about 35 miles east of Oakland. Where are you? Our tele No is 925-455-1036, fax 925-606-7534. We are normally in the shop between 8:30 and 3:00 - Pacific time | ||
| Tom Hutchison |
Here are a couple of pictures I took in July of the new factory demonstrator. I have others but these show some of the firewall forward work.  Continental IO-550 Engine installation  Left side of firewall I apoligize if everyone got notification of a posting that didn't exist. I was unable to upload jpeg pics, so I had a bad posting with the upload, it was erased. I will try to figure out why jpegs won't upload and fix it. Tom | ||
| Rob Jordan |
What's everyone doing about an exhaust on the IO 540 installs. I'm building a CT with an IO540 - C4B5 and need to get an exhaust system. Also what boost pump should I order for it. | ||
| Jay Villalva |
I'm using the Express factory exhaust. I'm very satisfied with the fit and the workmanship. Check out the certification documents (TCDS) for the aircraft your engine came from. You can go to the web site below and enter PA-24-250 in the search block and you can look at the TCDS for the Piper Comanche. I'm sure you can find many other applications. http://www.airweb.faa.gov/Regulatory_and_Guidance_Library/rghtml.nsf/htmlmedia/make_model_search.html Jay | ||
| Bob Gisburne (Gisburne) |
Rob: I used a modified Glasair III exhaust system and have been quite happy as well. I wrapped my exhaust with "speed shop" style exhaust insulation wrap to keep the heat off the cowling. Originally I used glued down heat blanket on the inside of the cowl, but found that messy. I can send pictures this weekend if you want. Bob Gisburne N4382A | ||
| Larry Hoppe |
Our IO-540 has the oil filter (Lycoming part nos. 77852 and 77853) extending from the back of the engine. By my measurement, it will hit the firewall or will be extremely difficult to remove if it does fit. Has anyone used the short Champion CH48108 filter on their engine? | ||
| LOUIE LACY (Llacy) |
Larry Use the Airwolf remote oil filter: oil cooler works great. Lou | ||
| jharlow |
I have received a letter from the Western Oklahoma State College asking for me to fill out a survey regarding service life. They state that there appears to be possible problems with the IO 540 Lyc engine. It states that many owners have experienced inflight failures, metal produced in the engine , bearing failure or excessive fatigue that has caused premature overhaul well short of the advertised TBO. The purposse is to gather real life experieces with the Lyc 540 series engine and to determine the extent and nature of all problems. Has anyone else received a request for such a survey? Do we have a wide spread problem? Please give me yuour thoughts. John | ||
| Terry Sack (Terrair) |
John, I got a similar survey and think it was sent purely for marketing purposes. I threw it away. I have not had any problems of any kind on my Cherokee 235. It currently has 1600 hours on it's first rebuild. Wouldn't the FAA be pursuing this study? Or a notice in a publication like AOPA Pilot be printed? | ||
| Blake Richards |
I have a lycoming IO540 k1g5 and have installed the airwolf oil filter and am also happy with its Quality. I am getting ready to purchase a oil cooler system. Checking out a friends glassair with the same IO540 I noticed only one cooler yet the factory Express S 90 has 2. Does anybody have any information or opinions on which cooler and weather to use 1 or 2. I live in Oregon but would like fly in 100+ F temps. Thanks in advance | ||
| Bob Gisburne (Gisburne) |
John: There has been a class action suit filed by a Malibu Mirage owner in Houston or Dallas TX. He suffered a loss of power at about 14,000 feet and then complete engine failure on a flight from Vegas. He performed an IFR, dead stick approach to Bullhead City, AZ, but landed about 1/2 mile short. There were no fatalities, but some pretty bad injuries. There have been a rash of premature and inflight failures of the IO540-AE2, twin-turbocharged engines. Additionally, there are lots of firewall forward vibration related failures. My Mirage suffered from broken turbo mounts, broken air conditioner brackets, broken alternator brackets, broken exhaust, etc, etc. New Mirages have reportedly been making metal at less than 125 - 200 hours SNEW. Piper/Lycoming is currently refitting the entire Mirage fleet with new main bearing due to the potential failure of the bearing... I think these engine issues explain the phenominal success of the Jet Prop PT-6 conversion for the Malibu/Mirage fleet... I think this is driving the overall research. I have over 450 hours on a reman IO540-C4B5 in my Express with no issues other than one cylinder glazing probably due to my fault. Hope this sheds some light... Bob Gisburne N4382A | ||
| Bob Gisburne (Gisburne) |
Blake: During the life of my Express, I've tried both option. First I had twin-9 row coolers mounted on the aft of each bank of cylinders. I live near Phoenix, AZ and could not do touch and go's in 100+ degree days. I fiddled with reverse NACA vents on the bottom of the cowl, sealing every leak with tape, etc. and could not get satisfactory performance. I then installed a single 13-row cooler on the right side of the engine, mounted to the engine ount and fed from a cowling side NACA vent. This works great. On an full power climb to 12,000 feet in the summer, I have to reduce my rate of climb when the oil temp gets to 220F. Other than that, I can do touch and go's all day long at 100F. ambient. I developed a digital differential pressure measurement gauge for helping to determine cooling efficiency. It basically has two tubes, one on the top of the engine (hi pressure) and one on the bottom of the engine (lo pressure) below the baffling. My gauge reads differential pressure in inches of water so you can play with baffling, opoening sizes, exhaust sizes, etc. until you get maximum pressure differential which leads to maximium cooling efficiency. I'd be happy to lend it to anyone who wants to use it. have fun! Bob Gisburne N4382A | ||
| jharlow |
Bob, I would be very interested in using your delta P measurment setup. I live in S Fl and although I do not have a oil temp problem I do seem to run high cyl head temps. John | ||
| Bob Gisburne (Gisburne) |
John: Send me you mailing address. I am at gisburne@technolabinc.com. Bob | ||
| Tom R. Hutchison (Tomhutch) |
The following came in this week's AOPA ePilot electronic newsletter ----------------------- SCHOOL DISAVOWS LYCOMING ENGINE SURVEY Western Oklahoma State College is disavowing a survey on Lycoming 540 engines that was sent out on the college's letterhead. The survey, sent to many Lycoming 540 engine owners, purports to gather owners' "real-life experiences with the Lycoming 540 engine series and to determine the extent and nature of all problems." School President Randy Cumby told AOPA, "Western Oklahoma State College has not authorized any surveys or research in relationship to the Lycoming engines. The Oklahoma Attorney General's office is looking into this situation at the request of Western Oklahoma State College." AOPA will provide more information as it becomes available. ----------------------- | ||
| LOUIE LACY (Llacy) |
Anyone Does anyone know where to find the oil filter for the airwolf remote system. The numbers AFC 500-B do not match up with anything I can find that Champion makes. The internal threads are 3/4 16 and the other filters are 5/8 Lou | ||
| Bill Copeland |
Louie: Try Champion part No. CH 48108 - 3/4X16 - at least that is what ours is. Try your local FBO. Bill C. | ||
| LOUIE LACY (Llacy) |
How do you receive AD from Lycoming. I just found out today there is an AD on the oil pump gears for an IO540. I just assumed(wrongly) that when your Airworthiness Certificate is issued you would automatically receive the ADs | ||
| jharlow |
Lou, For me it has been automatic. I have a certified engine and stated so in my paperwork to the FAA. Can't answer your Question directly just that I have been receiving AD's John | ||
| LOUIE LACY (Llacy) |
John I am sure you are aware of the oil pump AD on most Lycoming Engines that came out in 96. I was not until talking to the mechanic who has done my annuals. I talked with the local(memphis) GADO today and he informed me all future AD will be on the internet only.I tried for about 1 hour to find this information and could not. Did your information come from Lycoming or the FAA Lou | ||
| jharlow |
All info to date has come from the FAA. John | ||
| Wayne |
Has anyone used an electronic ignition system? I am planning on using a Light Speed Engineering Plasma system, any thoughts on this with a mag back up. ?? I have an Airwolf remote oil filter on my aerbatic airplane , also two coolers mounted on the rear baffles. But this time I got a Lyc oil screen adapter from ACSS $189 and a remote oil filter housing from JEGS automotive, speed cat. $16. Running my own -8 line it is a cheaper set up. I am putting in 2 coolers in the back baffle also. | ||
| Rob Jordan |
Wayne I have the lightspeed on my IO-540 and while its not flying yet I do have about 3 hours of time on the engine. It seems to perform very well. There is no comparing it against my rebuilt mag. the engine runs much better on the electronic than it does on the mag. The guy who runs the company has a personality like the soup nazi on seinfield but his product appears to be good. | ||
| Jimmy Brod |
IO-540-C4B5 Aztec Engine 2100 hrs total time, 0 hrs since new limit overhaul with new cylinders. This engine is very nice the crankshaft is with-in new limits. Perhaps a express builder can use this engine. Call Jimmy at 863-655-5000 or e-mail at www.jbaircraftengines.com $20,500.00 | ||
| Eric Holmberg (Erich) |
All of you IO-540 guys out there, what propeller did you use in your plane? Wayne, you used an MT if I remember, right? I checked on the Hartzel 3-blade and they want $15k for the prop, spinner, and bulkhead. I still have to get a governor. What is the cost of the MT that people have been getting? Also, I'm looking at using a McCauley since they seem to be more plentiful and less expensive. Price quotes and part numbers greatly appreciated! -Eric | ||
| Jerry Sjostrand |
Eric (and others): I have purchased 2 props from Santa Monica Propeller in Santa Monica California and have always gotten a great price. You do not have to pay list price!!! Call them and ask for a price on a rebuilt (their specialty) or a new one. They sold me a 3 blade new Hartzel delivered from the factory for $7,000 and the list was $11,000+. Let me know how it turns out. Jerry | ||
| Eric Holmberg (Erich) |
Yeah, this place was telling me that $15k was with a 10% discount. However, that was for the Express S-90 which uses the Q-tip prop for the TSIO-550. At Oshkosh, the Hartzell booth guys told me $7,995 for the prop used on the Piper Cherokee 260. I just found the printout from them. Does the prop HC-C3YR-1RF/F7693F sound familiar? I'll give the prop shop a call again and see what they can do. I'm also waiting on some quotes from MT. I like the lighter weight and I'm considering going to the electric CS prop so I don't have to deal with getting a governor and the risk that the prop can get destroyed along with the engine if it starts making metal. There's also the landing issue that you brought up about how your metal prop actually held up the airplane when the nose gear collapsed. Thanks, Eric | ||
| Jerry Sjostrand |
Eric: I am glad you remembered my "experience" with the 3 blade metal prop. It saved me a lot of work and the belly of the airplane. They (metal props) are also cheaper and are not "experimental" as some of the newer types of props. The MT is a great choice but it is wood and has a limited service cycle for IFR use as I understand. Hey guys, what can you add to this? Jerry | ||
| Eric Holmberg (Erich) |
MT just passed the bird test and ice test for some of their certified versions, but I would agree that they may be more prone to damage that you cannot detect as easily as on a metal prop. Here's the Hartzell info: Prop: HC-C3YR-1RF / F7693F Blades: 3, Scimitar Weight: 77.5 lbs Size: 78" TBO: 2400 hrs or 6 years MT Info: Prop: MTV-12 Blades: 3, Scimitar Weight: 46.1 lbs Size: 76" TBO: 600!!!!! hrs or 6 years or 58 lbs & 1800 TBO for MTV-14 Okay, after doing that quick research, it looks like the MT is going to be more costly because of overhauls if I go with the MTV-12 and the MTV-14 doesn't offer such a substantial weight savings. I'll see what information I can get tomorrow since I may be off with this info since I pulled it from multiple documents on MT's site. I don't consider 20lbs worth of savings in the prop to be worth too much if I end up with reduced life and without a landing skid :P Thanks for the tips! -Eric | ||
| wayne |
I wouldn't rely on using your propeller as a nose skid. You are right that the old metal props are bolt on and forget them(for the most part) for the next 15 years. But it's MT for me. With these planes already nose heavy, -20 # might be worth it. They run about 12k with spinner and gov. I can get you intouch with a good dealer you you change your mind. Don't call the ad dealer. Well it's off to Florida on Norris Express! | ||
| jharlow |
HEY!!!, if anyone (Wayne) comes to Florida you are welcome to stop by my place. I live on a 5000 foot grass runway at the top of lake Okeechobee. It's called River Oak Acres (00FL) 8 miles west of the town of Okeechobee. PH 863-357-6754 John | ||
| Phil & Margie Hodge (N410mp) |
I've got the 4 blade MT on mine, and like it. I needed the weight savings, and if I remember correctly it was more than 20#. When my nose gear decided to take a vacation, the plane rested on the broken stub of the gear, at the knee brace, with NO fiberglass damage. The prop left 12 strike marks on the pavement, indicating it took 3 full revolutions to stop as it was making kindling. While technically still a sudden stoppage requiring engine teardown, it actually wasn't any more sudden than a normal shut-down. By adding a blade I was able to reduce the diameter, which gives me more ground clearance for grass operations and reduces the noise to my neighbors. It also looks sexier than 3! Phil | ||
| Eric Holmberg (Erich) |
I received a call from Express today with a price for their propeller. It was a great price in the $8k range for the prop that I was quoted $15k. However, it was for the Continental, so it would have the wrong mounting flange. So, I went back to Hartzell and found out that the Piper Dakota prop upgrade for the O-540-J3A5D is the one that I need since it has the proper extension on it. The other nice thing is that they produce larger numbers of them, so the MSRP is $7,995 for the complete prop & spinner kit. I can get it here for $7,300. So, compared to the MT-12, that's a savings of over $4,000. For the extra weight of 79.2 - 58 = 21.2 lbs. Prop: HC-F3YR-1ARF/F7693F Spinner: C-3570-1P Weight: 79.2 lbs I'll send Express another email to see if they have another prop with the right flange or can get the above prop. One thing is sure, that I'll go with the Hartzell since the $4k savings can pay for my insurance for the first year. -Eric | ||
| Eric Holmberg (Erich) |
Hi Guys, Okay, well things have mushroomed out of hand here. I have a lot of contradictory information from multiple sources and a lot of "I feel..." type of stuff. Not the information I like to hear when I'm getting ready to plunk down $8k for a prop. Anyway, I'm waiting on documentation from Hartzell and other information. I will study it all and post my information on here. There are several other builders that have contacted me that are looking for the information too, so it should at least be useful for some other builders. In the meantime, could everyone that is using the Lycoming IO-540 with a Hartzell please email me with your engine model and prop number? That would help a lot to see what definitely works. -Eric | ||
| LOUIE LACY (Llacy) |
ERIC Using IO540-C4B5 Hartzell Hub model HC-M2YR-1RF Blade design F8477-6 78" LOU | ||
| Roy Howard Davis New member Username: Royhdavis Post Number: 2 Registered: 01-2003 |
I followed up on someone's suggestion to contact Jetprop for some of the TIO-540's they are pulling out of Malibu/Mirage's. These are TIO-540-AE2A engines with twin intercoolers. I haven't been able to find a drawing of one, but the dimensions are listed as 27.75" H, 46.53" W by 42.01"L. Most TIO-540's are only 34" wide. I think that unless I want a cowling like a J-3 with the engine sticking out the sides I'll have to pass on this engine opportunity. Does anyone have better information? Roy | ||
| Louie Lacy Unregistered guest |
I am having a problem with vibration in my IO540. After about 2.5 hrs in cruise I get a vibration that last about 5 minutes. I go to rich and change prop rpm but it continues for about 5minutes and then stop. Any suggestions?? | ||
| Richard Martin Unregistered guest |
I am looking at using a TIO-540-AF1B on my Express, but am concerned with the weight of this Mooney engine. It's over 900 lbs with the controller, wastegate intercooler etc..while I see where most engines are around 750 lbs. Anyone looked at this? Richard Martin, wemartin@sprintmail.com | ||
| LOUIE LACY New member Username: Llacy Post Number: 63 Registered: 10-1999 |
When checking compression on my IO-540 I get a steady 75/80 but am getting air coming from the crankcase vent. Where is this air coming from and is this normal?? | ||
| Eric Holmberg New member Username: Erich Post Number: 66 Registered: 05-2002 |
That's the air blowing by the rings and into the crankcase (which you already know because you are getting 75/80 instead of 80/80) and is normal. I would be more worried about air coming out of the exhaust or intake because that points to a bad valve. Rings always leak a little, so the air coming out of the crankcase is normal. Valves should never leak. -Eric | ||
| Jim Oyler New member Username: Midniteoyl Post Number: 27 Registered: 07-2003 |
Thus the reason for the Crankcase Vent - to keep the crankcase pressure from building and forcing the oil/crud back up past the rings into the combustion chamber. When checking rings, the big thing your looking for is a difference between cylinders. If you have one cylinder that is down more than 3-5% than the other ones, it could be indicating and bad ring, scored cylinder walls, cracked or leaking valve, or bad head gasket. You can also use this test to see how quickly the rings are wearing by noting this test with previous tests. Depending on the engine specs, you would prolly want to do a top overhaul when the PSI drops below 70 or so for all cylinders (check the specs). However, while cranking, you will notice air in the exhaust due to the valve overlap (intake opening while exhaust is closing)if for some reason you left the spark plugs in. If removed, the air would excape out of the spark plug hole, and the amount out the exhaust would prolly not be noticable. I could prolly guess that you did leave them in due to you having crankcase pressure while cranking. Usually, the plugs are removed during this test to ease the load on the starter. Jim | ||
| LOUIE LACY New member Username: Llacy Post Number: 64 Registered: 10-1999 |
Thanks for the info guys. My learning curve for airplanes is almost flat The person I had helping me do the compression check didn't know which way the engine rotated and thus turned it backwards. I have since found out you can't get a reliable check this way and thus the reason for the low compression readings I got. He was turning the prop by hand with all the plugs out. Lou | ||
| henri walser New member Username: 43henri Post Number: 7 Registered: 02-2001 |
In the Goverment Bookstore or in the EAA-shop You find some verry god books ,like the AC 65-12 A , Airframe + Powerplant Mechanics, or the AC 43.13-1A Aircraft Inspection and Repair. There You will found all the procedure and infos for the Cylinder compression test and a lot more for the maintenance of Your engine . But never turn a engine back, You can damage the vacuum-pump. Henri | ||
| Jim Butler Unregistered guest |
Lou, You might want to take a day and go to several airports and talk with three or four different mechanics. I think you will find the consensus to be that 75/80 is not considered low compression. Jim | ||
| Eric Holmberg New member Username: Erich Post Number: 67 Registered: 05-2002 |
I looked through my engine rebuild manual and didn't find a spec for the minimum servicable compression reading. After looking through engine manuals, I've seen readings as low as 67/80 and the aircraft was returned to service without any comments. Does anyone know where to look up that info or where it might be located in the rebuild manual (I'm sure it has to be there) . . . or is it in the owner's manual (which I don't have)? 65/80 seems to stick in my mind, I don't recall the value for the maximum deviation between cylinders. | ||
| Jim Oyler New member Username: Midniteoyl Post Number: 29 Registered: 07-2003 |
75/80 is not low.. However, I currently do not know the limits for your engine. My experience is in auto engines and I was only trying to give a general quideline to follow. That said - if the 'normal' is 80, and you drop below 70, you will be at about 12.5% below 'normal', which is about halfway to most recommendations for 'lower limit' (20%-25%) for normal use engines, and close to 75% for High Performance engines (15%-20%). Thus my earlier recommendations. Personally, I would want to keep the maximum amount of power I could and would follow the HP spec. I understand time and budget will influence how soon this can happen. Now, understand also that just becuase a test shows that your around 70 or alittle above, this does not mean that the engine is 'bad' and can be returned to service. In a perfect engine, with perfect rings, ring gaps, cylinders, machining, etc, the compression will be very close to 80 (in this case) and is used as the reference. Lets say your engine specs at 78 after a rebuild. this is really good. However, during break in, the reading will drop by 1-2 due to variances in machining and installation. End Gap opening is the usual cause, The rings will 'seat', improving oil control, but this action also removes material from the cylinder wall and the ring, increasing the End Gap and letting increased blow-by to occur. Ok, so the Gap increased, the ring are seated, and the compression lowered by a couple. Now what? Nothing.. A properly maintained engine will run like this for a very long time and show very little wear and reduction in compression. After about half-way through TBO (earlier on these 'airplane' engines, it seems), the compression will start to lower little by little due to (mostly) the rings just 'giving up' and starting to wear. Valve and Valve Seat wear also contribute. This is were you can really use the measurements - to roughly 'gauge' the life life in the engine. By knowing the percentage of drop at each check, you can determine how long the rings will take to wear below minimums and budget/plan accordingly. Just a few basics to look for: -Compression is normal when the tester gauge shows a steady rise to the specific value with each compression stroke. -If the compression is low on the first stroke, then builds up with each stroke, but not to specifications, the piston rings are probably worn. -A low compression reading on the first stroke that builds up only slightly on the following strokes, indicates sticking or burned valves. -Variations between cylinders should not be more than 10-15%(normal) or 5-10%(HP). -When two cylinders next to each other have equally low-compression that means you have a blown head gasket (not really for these engines, but still valid for those with auto conversions). -A higher than normal reading usually means excessive carbon deposits in the combustion chamber. -If you find you have low compression, do a "wet" compression test after the dry test. Squirt a tablespoon of motor oil into the cylinder you are about to test (this will seal the rings better). If your compression raises to normal during this test, you can safely assume that the piston rings are shot and an engine overhaul is in your very near future You can also use an air compressor to check for leaks (leak-down test) with an adaptor, or make one by hollowing out an old spark plug and attaching a hose: -Place the piston at TDC and pressureize to about 80psi -Leakage of 0-10% is good. -Leakage of 10-20% is fair. -Leakage of 20-30% is poor. -Leakage of 30-100% is dead! -Leakage readings should not differ from each other by more than 5%. -If the cylinder has more than 20% leakage, pinpoint the cause of the leaks as follows: -Listen for air escaping through the air intake: this indicates a leaking intake valve. -Listen for air escaping through the exhaust pipe: this indicates a leaking exhaust valve. -Listen for air escaping through the crankcase and PCV system: this indicates worn or damaged piston rings, cylinder walls, or a worn or cracked piston. -Watch for air bubbles in the coolant: this indicates a leaking head gasket or a crack in the block or head (aero conversion). -If two adjacent cylinders have high leakage readings, the head gasket is leaking between them, or the head or block is cracked (areo conversion). -Cylinder leakage thru the carb on all cylinders can be caused by bent valves, due to a worn or broken timing chain, belt, or gears. Just trying to help Jim | ||
| Jim Oyler New member Username: Midniteoyl Post Number: 30 Registered: 07-2003 |
re-read that and want to be clear: 75 is NOT low and infact, I would consider it normal. Even very good if you have close to 1000 hr's on it. Jim | ||
| Jim Oyler New member Username: Midniteoyl Post Number: 31 Registered: 07-2003 |
Lycoming Compression Check Tip Page: http://www.lycoming.textron.com/main.jsp?bodyPage=/support/publications/keyRepri nts/maintenance/compressionCheck.html #2 States a maximum allowed loss is 60/80 - which seems really, really low to me. But thats just me. Jim | ||
| Jim Ward New member Username: Jehward Post Number: 1 Registered: 02-2000 |
What have those of you using the Lycoming IO-540C4B5 done for intake, filter, and alternate air provision? Any thought, pictures etc. would be appreciated. Thanks, Jim Ward | ||
| amoghadd Unregistered guest |
Jim: I am using a modified C4B5 in mine. My engine was upgraded with the Airflow performance fuel system and Barrett cold(RAM) air package. In order to take advantage of the Ram air, I can't place a filter in front of the intake. In order to have a filter for ground operation, I have constructed a tube from Carbon fiber/ Kevlar attached to a throttle body (95 mm for racing ford mustangs). I am branching off of this tube (run along the side of the cowling),and attach it to a filter box on the side of the cowling being fed from a NACA inlet. I should be finished with this fabrication in next two weeks or so. I’ll be happy to share pictures of this set up with you, once I am done. In the mean time here is a sketch of my intended setup. If you are interested in more details, you contact me thru email at ali.Moghaddas@boeing.com or call me (Bill has my number). Thanks, Ali  | ||
| Eric Holmberg New member Username: Erich Post Number: 68 Registered: 05-2002 |
Hi Jim, I currently have an automotive round air filter mounted in the side cowling and a NACA scoop in the side. This air is routed through SCAT tubing to a fiberglass housing that is attached to the injection servo. The house has a spring-loaded door on it that allows alternate air if the main filter becomes clogged. Between the servo and the intake manifold (in the oil pan), I am using a custom pipe purchased from Express many many years ago. | ||
| Eric Holmberg New member Username: Erich Post Number: 69 Registered: 05-2002 |
Ali, That's a great idea, I'll be interested to know how that works. What prevents the ram air from going out the filter on the side? -Eric | ||
| amoghadd Unregistered guest |
Good to hear from you Eric, Regarding leakage thru the side filter, the people that I have talked with including the engine builder do not think that you get a significant drop in the ram air pressure. The air is still coming thru the filter, creating a flow toward the intake(positive pressure), in addition to the suction from the intake pulling the air toward the engine. I considered placing another butter fly valve at the branch, but that adds weight, complexity, and another mode of failure including chance of having both butterfly valves closed which could ruin someone's day! Another subject I wanted to bring to everyone’s attention is the orientation and the torque for the engine mounts (Lord rubber mounts). I have seen some people installing these mounts backward! Here is the instructions from LORD (I spoke with them myself): On the top mounts, the ribbed half (stiffer) of the mount should be forward of the mounting ring. On the bottom mounts, the ribbed half (stiffer) of the mount should be aft of the mounting ring. The torque for the bolt should be 450-500 in-lbs (40 ft-lbs). It is preferable to have a drop of lubricant (oil) on the threads to minimize friction, and get adequate preload in the bolt shank. This torque is based on the size of the bolt (7/16”). Ali | ||
| Eric Holmberg New member Username: Erich Post Number: 70 Registered: 05-2002 |
That sounds like a great system, Ali. Do you have any idea what the performance increase is for the RAM air? I'm going to redo part of my cowling and could possibly add a ram-air system like yours. -Eric | ||
| Jim Ward New member Username: Jehward Post Number: 2 Registered: 02-2000 |
Ali: Is the air direction correct on the sketch above? Eric: I sent Ali a site from Knots2U that outlines a side intake that might be helpful. http://www.knots2u.com/30ind%20install.htm | ||
| Eric Holmberg New member Username: Erich Post Number: 71 Registered: 05-2002 |
That link pretty much shows what I have with the NACA scoop on the side and a filter before the air inlet. I'm currently debating whether I should leave it alone or go with the ram-air type system. Just out of curiosity, what happens if you're flying through rain? Is the idea that not enough water gets ingested to make a big difference in engine performance? -Eric | ||
| wayne Unregistered guest |
I get an inch plus increase in MP with a ram intake and no filter. Alittle water can be a good thing. I had a double flame out in a C310 do to water injestion once but I wouldn't advise flying into that type of TRW++R with our planes. My ram rise seems to work better at high alt. I was still getting 15.5 " at 18000'. | ||
| amoghadd Unregistered guest |
Jim, Eric: The air flow direction is correct. Wayne numbers support what I heard about performance improvement. I am told, you can get up to 1.5” increase in manifold pressure. One of the reasons, I am using filtered air as alternate air is the rain issue. Minor amount of rain could decrease performance, another issue could be corrosion due to high moister, high temperature environment in the engine. Ali | ||
| Ali Moghaddas New member Username: Ali Post Number: 7 Registered: 06-2001 |
Here is a picture of my setup (in progress). Ali  | ||
| Eric Holmberg New member Username: Erich Post Number: 72 Registered: 05-2002 |
Looks great, Ali! Are you using the S.5 spark plug adapters from Aircraft Spruce? I've been thinking about doing that. Does anyone else have experience with the auto plugs? -Eric | ||
| ali moghaddas New member Username: Amoghadd Post Number: 1 Registered: 09-2003 |
Hello Eric; I am using a Light speed engineering plasma III elecronic ignition (http://www.lsecorp.com)on the right side(bottom) & magnito on the left side(top). The engine builder installed the setup. I think, he got the spark plug adapters from AC spruce. Ali | ||
| bluemoonxpress Unregistered guest |
IO540 Baffles - I'm looking for a set of templates or plans for IO540-C4B5 engine baffles. Van's has plans for an IO360 which I am attempting to modify, however there are major differences in the back of the engine case. (Not to mention a couple of extra cylinders) If anyone has a set of templates I could borrow, it would really expedite the process. Bill Page FrontPage@fast.net | ||
| Anonymous |
Ali, The pictures are great but you must post them as a smaller size if possible. It screws up the width of the page. | ||
| tom ware New member Username: Tommie Post Number: 19 Registered: 06-2000 |
info needed on lyc.IO540C4B5? fuel line set up ? i think it goes from aux pump to engine pump to fuel body. do i need a fuel return line ? and on the fuel dist body that is mounted on top ogf the engine there is a 1/8 line is this the return and does this engine use a primer? not spec. in engine manual i have. | ||
| wayne Unregistered guest |
Use a -6 line from aux pump to eng AC pump to the fuel servo. then you can use -4 to the spider. there is no return line to the tank. only a recirculating line at the aux pump back to the fuel line between the valve and pump. NO primer on an injected engine. You can install a fuel pressure union (from Jegs)on the out port of the AC pump, for F press sender. install your f flow sender inline at the spider. best place to get fuel injector lines is from Airflow Performance.unless you are wanting to keep the engine "certified", they also have a REAL nice servo, FM300.if you don't already have a RSA10. Send me your mail address and I can send you a fuel line drawing. Keep in mind that if you are wanting to keep your engines certified: all ADs have to be done,a certified mechanic needs to do the work and sign offs, you have to use a prop that was matched to the airframe/engine combo for that 25 hrs deal,....can you spell ++$$. why bother?? you already have an experimental airframe, why not an engine too! keep the data plate and if you sell it , all that needs to be done to re certify the engine is an inspection by that high dollar mechanic for approved parts,ADs. | ||
| amoghadd Unregistered guest |
I have the Airflow performance FM 300 installed on my engine (look at the picture above). I am told the same company makes the certifed servos, but the experimental version is larger with higher(and more efficient) flow. One good thing about the Airflow setup is that You can purge and cool the line (purge back to the tank or outside) to remove any vapors during the hot starts, hence, improving hot start conditions. | ||
| LOUIE LACY New member Username: Llacy Post Number: 72 Registered: 10-1999 |
I have been having a problem with timing my IO540 after taking the engine off (mistake!!) to do the oil pump ad. My question is: Does the 0 degree mark on the ring gear always line up when the #1 cylinder is at absolute top dead center. There seems to be a flat spot here and the alignment is not (exact) a few degrees off | ||
| Anonymous |
Does anyone have the cable lengths used for the throttle, prop and mixture controls? Using an IO-540 installation with the instrument panel as specified in the original Wheeler manual. | ||
| Anonymous |
Is it a front or rear induction?? you can string some weed eater line from your control position up to the engine to get the length YOU need.every install will be slightly different so find what works for you. | ||
| Anonymous |
I thought about that after I sent the query - front induction (IO-540-C4B5). The weed wacker line is a good idea too. Looking for an idea of the lengths needed. Any routing issues out there? | ||
| Jerry Sjostrand New member Username: Jerry Post Number: 53 Registered: 08-1999 |
I'm not anonymous!!! It sure would be nice to know who is on the forum. How about it guys??? I would suggest using aluminum electrician's ground wire (16-14 gauge)to make the runs---I did and it worked great because it will retain a shape as you you pass it through the fire wall and around the engine components. It will give you exact lengths. String or weed eater line will not work as well. Good luck. Jerry  | ||
| Jim Butler Unregistered guest |
You might want to make sure you use the teflon lined control cables. I used the polyethylene ones, and on a very hot day, when the engine cooled down after a flight, they siezed up. The polyethylene had melted and fused to the cable. I replaced them with teflon lined cable and haven't had a problem since. Jim | ||
| Jim Ward New member Username: Jehward Post Number: 16 Registered: 02-2000 |
For anyone that has a Lycoming IO-540 engine, I have developed an alternate-air adapter that provides air to the servo if the primary source or filter becomes blocked. It is spring-loaded, so it works automatically, based on the suction of the engine. The round flange conects to 3 inch Sceet hose, or directly to a K&N cone filter. I'm looking to get a "run" scheduled at the machine shop, so email me if you're interested. I'll work a discount for the Express group. And no!! the servo is not included!   | ||
| Carter A. Smith New member Username: Carter_smith Post Number: 9 Registered: 07-2004 |
IO540 builders, I know that many of you have talked about this before, but it's time for me to pick a prop. The choices seem to be Hartzell 3 blade scimitar or MT 4 blade with the Hartzell being heavier but the Mt being more expensive. I wonder what the latest thinking is. Your help would be appreciated. My engine is an IO540-K1A5. | ||
| wayne Unregistered guest |
they all have their strong suite. If you want to move the cg back go with an MT. if you plan to fly in the rain alot go metal. I fly my MTs in rain but they can chip some paint off. But like I tell people that say "that prop sure looks cool". does it really matter what it looks like on the ground? I care about how it performs. I think my 3 blade MT will out climb the rest but I give up some at cruise. I fly out off of 2500' grass strip so TO climb is more important. You pay your money and pay again later when any of the manufacters send out ADs. look at price, time before OH. If you go with MT let me know I have a friend in the business. | ||
| Douglas Hoff New member Username: Dhoff Post Number: 20 Registered: 05-2003 |
Could anyone tell me waht to torque the engine mount bolts to? Doug Hoff | ||
| CBROS Unregistered guest |
Carter: We are using a Hartzell 3 blade with a short hub and an original Wheeler cowling on our CT version. We were concerned about oveloading the nose gear. As it turned out we are still close to the front of the CG envelope with full fuel and one pilot. We also have to work real hard to load enough to affect the aft CG limit. The 2000 models and later, with the larger tail seem to have the opposite problem - that is you may have to work hard to get to a full forward CG loading. A lot depends on how light you have built your empennage. I don't know how the weight of your model IO-540 compares with our C4B5, but if you have your wings pinned and engine installed it will be a good idea to do a preliminary weight and balance and add the prop and hub weight and arm of various combinations into the spread sheet to see where you are. As far as performance is concerned we commonly see at least 1,000 fpm in climb out regardless of loading and an honest 175 kts in cruise. Bill C | ||
| AndyFawcett New member Username: Drew Post Number: 11 Registered: 03-2003 |
Bill C: I have a Hartzell 3 blade on an io550 (so maybe Im on the wrong thread - sorry) in a series 2000. I found I needed 20lb at #220 to be inside the forward CG limit with just the pilot & no fuel (seems like the worst flight regime for forward cg). If I had known this earier I would have planned for the battery in the baggage area. BTW - impressed at your 175kts - Im seeing 168 kts at 8500' at 2350 rpm, wot, 50 degrees rich. I still have a few holes on the outside of the plane to close-up though. AndyF | ||
| ali moghaddas New member Username: Amoghadd Post Number: 12 Registered: 09-2003 |
Doug, The torque for the bolts should be 450-500 in-lbs (40 ft-lbs). It is preferable to have a drop of lubricant (oil) on the threads to minimize friction, and get adequate preload in the bolt shank. This torque is based on the size of the bolt (7/16”). Ali | ||
| Douglas Hoff New member Username: Dhoff Post Number: 21 Registered: 05-2003 |
Ali- Thanks! Have a great Thanksgiving everyone! Doug Hoff | ||
| Charles M. Robinson New member Username: F15epilot Post Number: 39 Registered: 02-2004 |
OK...this is an IO-540 and Hartzell prop question, and since we've been on that topic, I'll ask it here. What's the correct prop indexing for an IO-540-C4B5 and a Hartzell 3-blade prop (HC-C3YR-1)? There's been an ongoing debate on the other forum I frequent (Grumman Gang) about whether it's #1 blade at 1 o'clock as you look at the plane, or as you sit in the plane. Of course, this is a 3-blade, and an IO-540. With the engine at 0-degrees TDC, the choices are #1 blade at 11 o'clock or 5 o'clock as you face the plane. The other method is to try both and use the smoothest position. Thoughts from the forum? Chuck | ||
| wayne Unregistered guest |
I have never heard of a "must be this way", but if anyone would know it would be the prop manufactor so ask them. If I remember there is only one way my MTs would go on do to the prop flange stud protrusion. anyway there is a #1 on the flange that matched the #1 on the prop hub. as far as engine weights, The narrowdecks (c4b5, 250-60hp) are about 40# lighter then angle valve types, (g1d5 290,300hp)so large engine and MT may= smallengine metal prop. My 300hp and MT is pushing the fwd cg solo and I can put 2x200#pax and 125# bags in the back to get to the aft cg. My plane likes backseater which is one of the great things about the EX2K. | ||
| Nathan Yoder Unregistered guest |
HI I am looking to buy a IO540 c4b5 . Anyone know of someone selling one I would much appreciate it. I am needing to replace my engine. I have had some unfortunate things happen and am having to replace the engines on my Aztec to get it sold. If anyone could help please email me. Nathan | ||
| Nathan Yoder Unregistered guest |
HI I am looking to buy a IO540 c4b5 . Anyone know of someone selling one I would much appreciate it. I am needing to replace my engine. I have had some unfortunate things happen and am having to replace the engines on my Aztec to get it sold. If anyone could help please email me. nlyady@cableone.net Nathan | ||
| Steve Christensen New member Username: Stevec Post Number: 6 Registered: 12-2002 |
I would appreciate some imput. I am planning how to hook up the fuel system. My thought is that the basic concept is that the fuel should ether run down hill or run up and that there should be a sump at the low spots to be able to drain off condensation. I am planning a fuel valve in the center at the front of the seats. From where the fuel line comes into the fuselage from the wing, it needs to go down under the control stick and then come back up to the fuel valve. Is this a problem? Should there be sumps on all these lines at this point? What have others been doing. Also it apears there will be a slight rise in the line from the bottom of the fuel valve to where it comes through the firewall just above where the nose gear attaches to the engine mount. Is the gascolator capable of picking up what might be in these lines? | ||
| Carter A. Smith New member Username: Carter_smith Post Number: 19 Registered: 07-2004 |
Does anybody have weight and balance data for an Express 2000 with IO540 ??? All I have been able to find is data with the IO360, and it's time for a trial weight and balance to see where we are. Thanks , Carter | ||
| Bob Henderson Unregistered guest |
What is the best sequence for the fuel through the electric fuel pump, mechanical pump, gascolator to carb/ Thanks Bob Henderson | ||
| Charles M. Robinson New member Username: F15epilot Post Number: 44 Registered: 02-2004 |
On mine, the fuel flows from the fuel selector valves (L/R-Aux selector feeding a L/R/AUX/OFF selector) to the gascolator then a split. One leg of the split feeds the electric fuel pump (I'm using a heat shielded Holley Blue pump). The other leg feeds a one-way valve. The outpus of these two feed the mechanical fuel pump which feeds the engine. I've installed heat-shielding on all of these lines (not done by the previous builder), including the line that passes from the bottom of the motor up between the #2 and #4 cylinders to the spider on top. Hope that helps. | ||
| wayne Unregistered guest |
W/B and fuels lines. My plane: left gear 654,R 659, N 462. Empty wt 1775 @ 72.7". I put the gross at 3300# which as you can see is a lot of stuff. What engine are you using? C4B5 wt is 404#, G1D5 like mine is 454#, Prop?? my MT is less then 50#. I got 6 W/Bs from Larry, they varied by a wide margine, not even having close to the same gear locations to the datam. A testament to the fact that the planes are all hand made, I went to the factory many times to check the way things were done so I could build mine. No two where alike, which isn't always bad thing, lets you know it really doesn't matter alot of the time. I used SS braided fuel lines, one piece from the tank to the selector. The selector may be 1-2" above the fuel pick up, but there is still head pressure there and I have only a quart of un-usable a side, I poured 5 gal in the tank, took the line off at the selector and let it drain back out into the can, 4.75 came out. My line goes from the selector thru the filter/gascolator to the electric pump, to the engine pump to the servo. There is a pressure return from the OUT side of the electric back the the IN side of the gascolator.vie "T"s. this bleeds off press. How to do it on a TCM engine is some one elses problem. But this works on both of my engines. | ||
| Bob Henderson Unregistered guest |
Thanks for the fuel line info. You guys are great. Bob | ||
| Bob Henderson (Unregistered Guest) Unregistered guest |
Gentlemen, I have another question. How big should be the intake air filter be (sq in,thickness etc for the IO540, 250hp.I want to know so I know how big to cut the hole in the lower cowl. Aircraft Spruce offers a lot of filters, but gives no sizes, wfor many different planes but not engins. Thanks, Bob | ||
| wayne (Unregistered Guest) Unregistered guest |
get one for a Cherokee six, or Navajo, or check out one in the auto race car(Jeggs) for 300hp engines. Air filters are over rated, unless you are flying in the dirty SW with dust storms. I have been around lots of high performance planes not using filters, niether of my planes have one, I ram straight into the servo, but do what make you comfortable. | ||
| Steve Bussey New member Username: Geosync Post Number: 10 Registered: 01-2003 |
I sized my air filter from the K & N airfilter web page formula http://www.knfilters.com/facts.htm for a IO540 at 2700 rpm it works out to 70 inches. They claim that the air right behind the propellor is turbulent, and that a high performance filter will actually give a higher manifold pressure than straight, unfiltered ram air. The filter folds make for a more uniform flow. I have no way to test that, but I like the story so "I'm sticking to it". I mounted the filter to front of the cowl, similar to a Cesna 182. Not real sexy looking, but it works well. I think Wayne's approach is fine too. Some people switch between filtered on the ground and ram air in flight. Steve | ||
| ali moghaddas New member Username: Amoghadd Post Number: 18 Registered: 09-2003 |
Challenger aviation sells a bracket-filter assembly setup that uses high efficiency K&N filter. I picked the one they make for Bonanza (PN CP-2003, $130.95 at AC Spruce)which has a similar HP & speed as the Express. I just made a cone from graphite/ Kevlar to adapt to it. I was going to have the ram air with the addition of filtered air(with a manually operating gate), but the set-up looked too draggy & ugly, so I cut it out, and for for now I am going with this filtered setup. Ali | ||
| ali moghaddas New member Username: Amoghadd Post Number: 19 Registered: 09-2003 |
Challenger aviation sells a bracket-filter assembly setup that uses high efficiency K&N filter. I picked the one they make for Bonanza (PN CP-2003, $130.95 at AC Spruce)which has a similar HP & speed as the Express. I just made a cone from graphite/ Kevlar to adapt to it. I was going to have the ram air with the addition of filtered air(with a manually operating gate), but the set-up looked too draggy & ugly, so I cut it out, and for for now I am going with this filtered setup. Ali | ||
| Anonymous |
bob almost any size k&n filter will work for ground and taxi. room inside cowl is limiting factor, i installed a transfer valve from airflow performance on my express i get ram air from the front of the cowl when in flight filtered air from a k&n on the ground difference at 8500 ft is about .8 inches more of manifold pres from filtered to ram @ 2350 rpm, 23 inches. ive used this same set up on the last three airplanes i have built and it works very well. rv76@aol.com | ||
| Bob Henderson (Unregistered Guest) Unregistered guest |
Thats what I like about this group! Ask a question and get many good answers. Thanks again, Bob | ||
| Christian Schimanski (Unregistered Guest) Unregistered guest |
Hello All... I don't want to get on anyones nerves but I am looking already too long for two baffle kits for a piper aztec O-540-A1D5 engine (carb). I would be happy with the most shittiest baffles on this planet, because I do not have any. Maybe someone know, where to get them used, new, reproduced, ... Every input is apreciated. Thanks for helping Christian Schimanski powerbike@web.de | ||
| Steve Bussey New member Username: Geosync Post Number: 11 Registered: 01-2003 |
I bought a set from Express Aircraft supposedly for my IO540C4B5, but I still had to modify it quite a bit. The EAA website http://www.eaa.org/ (in the members only section, http://members.eaa.org/home/homebuilders/building/engines/articles.html ) has two excellent articles written by Tony Bingelis on how to make your own. You might be better off and save time and money making your own. Steve Bussey | ||
| Anonymous |
bob i purchased baffling from vans i have used it on both the io540 parralel and angle valve engines it saves a lot of fabrication time and was very reasonably priced they sell it for the four cyl engines all you have to fabricate it the center center cyl baffles. if i can be of any help contact me at rv76@sbcglobal.net | ||
| LOUIE LACY New member Username: Llacy Post Number: 86 Registered: 10-1999 |
I have a problem with the top plug in #5 cylinder not firing when I first start the engine. I have to bring the EGT up to about 1500 for about 30 seconds and then the plug starts to fire normally. Any ideas what would cause this to happen. I replace the plug with a new one. Lou Lacy | ||
| Alejandro Rosero New member Username: Alekscito Post Number: 1 Registered: 09-2008 |
HI , I am going crazy with a IO-540 K1B5 (It was converted from a N1A5), just got it from overhauld , and installing it on my Islander , oil temp goes up further than red and the oil pressure lower than 30psi.... Does anybody know what can be going on ...I am from ecuador And got the overhauld in Signature Engines in Cincinatti, THnaks to all , my email is aleks_rosero@hotmail.com | ||
| Jim Ward New member Username: Jim_ward Post Number: 1 Registered: 08-2007 |
Try looking at this web address that discusses Lycoming oil pressures: http://www.sacskyranch.com/eng26.htm Item #2 discusses how to adjust for low oil pressure. Once this is addressed, it might help with the high oil temp. I would also suggest consulting with the engine rebuilder. | ||
| Alejandro Rosero New member Username: Alekscito Post Number: 2 Registered: 09-2008 |
Thanks Jim but we found the problem.... It was that the plane we bouht did not comply completly to the stc for the 300hp engine (from a 260hp) where a second oil cooler is needen, that fixed the problem now oil pressure and temp are OK, thanks | ||
| Etaube New member Username: Etaube Post Number: 1 Registered: 04-2010 |
Newbie here. This is more a propeller question..having issues with trying to get prop to generate more than 1750 after a rebuild on a 540. (3-blade hartzell). I am trying to help the mechanic figure out what's going on with it. The govenor was rebuilt and rechecked after not generating proper rpm. All timing is correct. The prop was 'overhauled' and the prop shop says everything was put back as should have been. Details might be somewhat vague, but looking for any pointers. Thanks. | ||
| Al Kittleson New member Username: Al38kit Post Number: 43 Registered: 07-2007 |
My first guess is that I doubt it is your prop at fault...unless it's one that starts at high pitch, which almost none do. Until you get the rpms up, the prop and the governor do nothing...the prop is just sitting there about in the same pitch you see it on the ground. What engine instrumentation do you have? What's the FF? At what point on the throttle throw does the RPM decrease stop? What engine and what induction/FI? Sounds like a fuel problem...does anything change when you run the boost pump? Most prop/governor problems I've seen manifest themselves at the top end...or in an RPM surge. | ||
| Etaube New member Username: Etaube Post Number: 2 Registered: 04-2010 |
gonna have to check out the details. like i mentioned...details vague. the plane has been flown, so i'm sure it's not a fuel problem. possibly the stops on the prop itself?? the prop shop said that is not the case, but maybe they put the prop back together incorrectly. not sure about the ff or boost question yet..mechanic isn't in yet today. thanks for the post. | ||
| Etaube New member Username: Etaube Post Number: 3 Registered: 04-2010 |
also, the plugs are very sooted up(black). maybe servo is bad? all timing has been rechecked and is ok. mechanic doesn't know about ff. he was going to check mag timing again. prop cycles, but is very sluggish. would poor fuel flow have anything to do with that? Thanks again. | ||
| Chaz King New member Username: Chazking Post Number: 20 Registered: 01-2005 |
Etaube, Try giving Airflow Performance a call.... I sent a separate eMail with details...they may be able to help. Chaz | ||
| Jim Oyler New member Username: Midniteoyl Post Number: 128 Registered: 07-2003 |
I was thinking two things could limit rpm and make the engine act 'sluggish' - Fuel flow, as mentioned, or the mags being bad/mistimed. | ||
| Al Kittleson New member Username: Al38kit Post Number: 44 Registered: 07-2007 |
If it has an Airflow Performance FI...why don't you get out the manual and do the mx checks as per the manual...? It's a good read. | ||
| Etaube New member Username: Etaube Post Number: 4 Registered: 04-2010 |
engine is running fine...just the prop is being 'sluggish'. he adjusted the prop 3 'turns' and it went from 1800 to 2150....just as i'm typing this, he found that a small spring was broken to the mixture?. even with that repaired, not sure that would cause the slugginess of the prop. when he's done, i'll mention the other items suggested by you(s). Thanks! | ||
| Chaz King New member Username: Chazking Post Number: 21 Registered: 01-2005 |
Etaube, Sounds like you have a blockage of some sort in the fuel system. I would investigate each component, clean them and re-install. At one point my fuel distributor (spider) had a small piece of rubber in it (after 3 years without flying, no surprise). You could have a foreign object that slows fuel flow as the pressure increases. A daunting problem, no doubt. Regards, Chäz | ||
| Etaube New member Username: Etaube Post Number: 5 Registered: 04-2010 |
After digging into the problem some more, it ended up being a prop adjustment issue. After rechecking the govenor and making sure the timing was not off, the propeller was the next item the mechanic dug into. Turns out the adjustments were off and he turned it in several turns to get the proper settings. Thanks for all the comments and suggestions. Best regards. | ||
| Chaz King New member Username: Chazking Post Number: 27 Registered: 01-2005 |
Recently, I had a serious oil leak and the troubleshooting took some time. I changed all the oil hoses and replaced the ADC (Oberg) oil filter without resolving the leak.  It turns-out the oil attachment (on the accessory pack) has two 816 fittings. One of the fittings was safety wired to the vernatherm. That fitting, under pressure was shooting a steady stream of oil against the firewall. You get the idea (a mess!). Replacing both 816's and using thread sealer, the leak has been repaired. I suspect the 816 with the safety wire had it's thread worn-away (thread sealer cleared?) and that was the source of the leak. Experts have told me that's not possible. Who knows!? It's an area of concern during the annual. Also, the 816 used as the safety wire anchor was not an Aeroquip-type, so it's possible the aluminum threads were "sub" standard. Chäz |