| Author | Message | ||
     Jay Villalva |
I just went-a-round with trying to get the right elastometric mounts for my installation. I discovered that the Lycoming O/OI-540 to have two sizes of holes in the dynafocal. The ones I have, have the 1-3/8" holes and requires a J3804-20. The other size has 2" holes and a J9613-40 would have been the right ones. The J9613-40 are the ones the factory had listed for the big Lycomings. Seems like this wouldn't be such a hard thing to figure out, but the mounts are listed by airframe and not by engine type. The typical parts providers (Spruce and Chief) didn't have the specifications on the parts they carry. I did find the Lord web site (www.lordcorp.com)and they have a help page where you can ask them questions. I got a response the next day. | ||
| Jay Villalva |
Round three - two types of 540 series engine dynafocals. 1-3/8" holes and 2" holes. The factory is making the engine mounts for the large hole dynafocal arrangement. It turns out, the two are not interchangable (the angles are different and the clearances are affected). I'm now off to remove the small hole dynafocals and get the other size. And I will be re-ordering the J9613-40 mounts. | ||
| Bill Copeland |
Jay: Thanks for the info, but your troubles are not over quite yet. We have the mount you describe( with the large holes) and I can tell you that even with an A&I on site we had a heck of a time getting the bolts through the bottom holes after we started the top ones. Recommend you start with the bottom holes and then go to the top. Would you please let me have your latest street address by E-mail. Bill C. | ||
| Jay Villalva |
Now for the rest of the story - I swapped the 'small' hole dynafocals for a set of 'large' hole ones, got my Barry (94011-20) elastomers and went about installing them. I used AN7-32 bolts (which turned out to be to short - I'll be ordering AN7-34's to replace them soon). Here's how I accomplished the process. I moved the engine in postion, I installed the top two bolts to a depth equal to the thickness of the elastomer half, placed the elastomer half's in postion. Doing one elastomer at a time, I install the spacer and the other half of the elastomer (sandwiching the dynafocal). Then I inserted the bolt the rest of the way (the sequence of when to put the bolt in the 'rest of the way' is more important on the bottom mounts due to the space considerations). My plan was to use a large C-clamp to compress the assembly to get the bolt and nut fastened. I used a brass dowel on the engine mount side (this enures the bolt is seated - also makes sure it's long enough so you don't damage the paint on the engine mount when you start clamping), on the engine side I used two wood blocks (2" X 2" X 1") and scrap piece of metal to form a bridge. This 'bridge' allows room to get to the bolt threads for installion of the nut and washer. The idea here is to sandwhich the elastomers, dynafocal, and large washer all at the same time. Then using the C-clamp to squish the assembly until enough threads are showing to allow installation of a washer and nut. At this I installed the nut only enough to ensure it would hold this assembly together when the C-clamp is removed. I repeated this process for the other upper elastomer. I didn't heed Bill's recommendation to do the bottom mounts first (frankly, I forgot and didn't remember about it until I read it again today), so I don't know if this made it harder or not. The aft bottom elastomers were postioned on the dynafocals and the alignment to the engine mount was accomplished by side loading the elastomers (carefully using a piece of wood agains't the metal portion of the elastomer) and using a tampered rod initially until the bolt could be used. I kept the weight of the engine supported through this process (the upper elastomers still aren't tightened completely, yet). Once the bolt was inserted as far as the elastomer half is thick - the spacer was installed and the fwd half of the elastomer positioned (space is tight here). The bolt is inserted the rest of the way, the C-clamp, brass rod and bridge are assembled with the big washer in place and the entire assemble squished to allow for installation of the washer and nut. Repeat for the last mount. Once all four mounts were in place, I tightened the assemblies. This is where I discovered the bolts were to short - I did set up the C-clamp (and associated pieces) to re-compress the assembly to see how hard it was going to be to change-out the bolts to the right size. It actually was surprisingly easy (it does help to untorque the nut before putting on the clamp). I'll change out the bolts one at a time using the C-clamp method descibed above. If this whole explaination sounds like to much or if you need carification - drop me a line. | ||
| thutchis |
Great information Jay. Thanks for sharing it with everyone. I'll be sure and refer to it when I get to my engine install. Tom | ||
| LOUIE LACY New member Username: Llacy Post Number: 70 Registered: 10-1999 |
How much torque do you use in tightening the nuts for the engine mounts. I took my engine off to do the Lycoming oil pump AD and have forgotten(5 years) how much to tighten. Do you look for a squish of the elastomer or do you tighten to a specific torque.Think of your wire routing in case you ever have to remove the engine!!! | ||
| wayne Unregistered guest |
You tighten them till the heavy washers touch the inside spacer. Before you put it together, measure the spacer length plus the (washer thickness x2). After the engine is mounted you torq till the Lord mounts are that thick. So did you have the "wrong" gears or did you waste your time, like I did, and replaced a perfectly good set at 300hrs. Just as well up grade the pump housing while you are at it if you have the old 2 pc style. | ||
| amoghadd Unregistered guest |
Louie When I was fit checking my engine (IO-540), I had the same question, and I contacted LORD. Here is the answer from LORD. The torque for the bolt should be 450-500 in-lbs (40 ft-lbs). It is preferable to have a drop of lubricant (oil) on the threads to minimize friction, and get adequate preload in the bolt shank. This torque is based on the size of the bolt (7/16”). Also you want to pay attention to the orientation of the mounts. I have seen some people installing these mounts backward! Here are the instructions from LORD: On the top mounts, the ribbed half (stiffer) of the mount should be forward of the mounting ring. On the bottom mounts, the ribbed half (stiffer) of the mount should be aft of the mounting ring. Ali | ||
| Roger Spencer New member Username: Roger Post Number: 5 Registered: 05-2001 |
I'm getting close to mounting an IO 520D on my Aureiga/Express2000. My manual and the one online is almost silent on the firewall. I have a sheet of some white foam/asbestes like material (it insulates and does not burn) which I assume will go between the metal firewall and the fiberglass, but I do not have the metal firewall. Does anyone know the specs and thickness for the stainless firewall? Also, the manual seems to show it being assembled/sealed with some sort of adhesive. Does anyone know what is needed in this regard? Is there a strip of stainless that goes around the fuselage skins in front of the firewall? Obviously the mount will hold the assembly together where the bolts go through, but should the rest be sealed and if so with what? One final question on the firewall forward. What fuel pump and gascolator were recommended for the factory install? I assume I can use the same with my IO 520 although it may have some overcapacity. | ||
| wayne Unregistered guest |
.018 SS will work,something to reflect the heat, In a real fire, probably won't make any difference sorry to say, we are in a plactice airplane. I sealed the edges after installing the mount with red/copper hightemp RTV just to keep out oil,fuel,water.. Airflow Performance has nice pumps that are priced better than a Weldon. get what ever your engine fuel pressure requirements are. Andair makes a real nice gascolator/filter, which you will want to check/clean after the first hour and every few hours after depending on how much FG you find in it. I had plenty even after 100hrs. I still check it every time the cowl is off. | ||
| Jerry Sjostrand New member Username: Jerry Post Number: 56 Registered: 08-1999 |
Hi fellow builders: I purchased a used gascolator/filter from an aircraft salvage company. Cheap and it came with the pull cable that operates from the oil door on the top of the cowl. The unit was from a Cessna. Also, for those of you who are using TCM engines, the Cessna fuel valve is what I used with great success. The valve from the 210-206 works with the IO550 engines. Jerry | ||
| Jeff Turner New member Username: Jturner Post Number: 1 Registered: 05-2003 |
Roger, If you would like...I would be happy to take pictures of this installation and email them to you. I have the aircraft that Mr. Sjostrand built and will be glad take any photo's that might help you with the install of the engine and accessories under the cowling. I hope everything worked out OK with the engine after transporting it half way across the country. We made sure it was secure and crated up as good as possible before it left the shop. Let me know if I can be of any additional assistance. Jeff | ||
| Roger Spencer New member Username: Roger Post Number: 6 Registered: 05-2001 |
Jerry, Do you have the part numbers for that gascolator? I assume yours was from a 470 or 500 series engine? The used parts suppliers seem to all want part numbers. I like the units that have a remote method for draining the bowl. It's harder to check for water but it beats getting gas and oil on you hand and arm/sleeve trying to pull a sample. | ||
| Jerry Sjostrand New member Username: Jerry Post Number: 57 Registered: 08-1999 |
Roger; I think you can go on line with TCM and find a part number. I can not help with a number. Any Cessna with the pull cable should work. Good luck. Jerry | ||
| Chaz King New member Username: Chazking Post Number: 38 Registered: 01-2005 |
Hello All. I'm looking for info on the Lord Mounts used on the IO540 & the Furjesi engine mount? Anyone know the numbers? Best, Chäz | ||
| Tom Ware New member Username: Thomas Post Number: 9 Registered: 11-2005 |
Chaz i used Barry Contols mounts #94110-01 not flying with them yet! | ||
| ali moghaddas New member Username: Amoghadd Post Number: 34 Registered: 09-2003 |
LORD Part #: J-9613-12 You also want to get them from a high volume seller (AC Spruce). The mount deteriorate over time. The torque for the bolt should be 450-500 in-lbs (40 ft-lbs). It is preferable to have a drop of lubricant (oil) on the threads to minimize friction, and get adequate preload in the bolt shank. This torque is based on the size of the bolt (7/16). Also you want to pay attention to the orientation of the mounts. I have seen some people installing these mounts backward! Here are the instructions from LORD: On the top mounts, the ribbed half (stiffer) of the two should be forward of the mounting ring. On the bottom mounts, the ribbed half (stiffer) of the mount should be aft of the mounting ring. | ||
| Chaz King New member Username: Chazking Post Number: 39 Registered: 01-2005 |
All, In addition to Tom Ware's use of the Barry Control mounts, I found Lord mounts on Aircraft Spruce under the Piper (IO540-C4B5) section .. PA-23-250 : Lyc. IO-540-C4B5 : 8 : J-9613-12 : $126.75 Since many of the C4B5's were re-cycled Aztec engines, this is likely a "good" reference. I will pass along any further confirmation as it becomes available. Best, Chäz |